When to Prune a CAMPHOR TREE (Cinnamomum camphora)
Question from Barbie:
We have a very large Camphor tree about 45 years old. W have had it trimmed/laced several times. We want to be sure we have this done at the right time (or season) of the year. We live in So. CA about 20 miles North of San Diego. Also are about 2 miles from the Ocean
Answer from Pat:
Camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora) needs pruning in youth in order train it into a good shape. Beyond that, the only pruning absolutely necessary is to remove any dead branches and twigs. Pruning to remove dead and dying growth, can be done at any time of year, but when rains are heavy it would be wise to wait until after the rains.
Unfortunately, camphor trees are subject to Verticillium wilt which can cause wilting and dying of leaves, twigs, and branches. Verticillium wilt is at it worst in rainy years and if the soil does not drain well it sometimes kills the entire tree. There is no known treatment for Verticillium wilt except cutting the wilted or dead growth out of the tree and following up with nitrogen fertilizer. (I would recommend an application of humic acid, kelp, and chicken manure. Alfalfa tea would also be helpful.) If the tree is growing in heavy clay soil and if the clay does not drain well due to alkalinity, it would be a good idea to treat the soil under the tree annually with gypsum. Apply enough to the entire root zone from two or three feet from the trunk all the way to the drip line and ten or fifteen feet beyond that, so that it looks as if a light snow has fallen. Apply before rainfall or water it in. (See page 21 of my organic book for a full explanation of the uses of gypsum for increasing drainage of clay soil.)
Other than the pruning mentioned above, mature camphor trees need little pruning. A problem occurs, however, when camphor trees are planted on small lots. These trees are extremely handsome and best adapted to large landscapes. A mature camphor tree can eventually grow to be fifty feet tall and sixty feet wide, much too large for most small gardens. Additionally, camphor trees have many surface roots. It’s impossible to have a flowerbed under a camphor tree because of these roots, and their deeper roots sometimes get into pipes. They are also drippy trees. They drop their leaves in spring and then later on drop flowers, fruit, and twigs. For all these reasons, some homeowners prune the trees on a regular basis, but mainly to try to control their size. If this is the type of pruning you intend to do then the best time is late in a camphor tree’s dormant season, or late winter—February in your location. Despite all their bad habits, camphor trees have many lovable characteristics, particularly their striking appearance, the loveliness of their young foliage, their beauty in rain when the trunk of the tree turns black in contrast to the light green foliage, and the delightful fragrance emitted by their otherwise insignificant flowers. Personally I think it is far better to try to control a camphor tree’s size than to get rid of such a fine ornamental tree.
First hire a good arborist or reliable tree company to do the pruning. If you do not know whom to hire, ask your local garden club. Frequently they will have a few knowledgeable members who know a good company or individual tree trimmer that they use on a regular basis. The hat-rack method is only done by ignorant people who perhaps cannot even read and don’t know the difference between good and bad pruning. Secondly, make sure that all cuts are made back to a joint so there are never any stubs and there is always a leading bud (active growth) left on the branch that remains. However, also make sure that all cuts are made outside the branch collar. This is the swollen area surrounding the branch where it meets a larger branch or the tree trunk. Refer to a pruning book with photos and instructions.
I have a couple of camphor trees in Squaw Valley, CA. It gets up to 110 degrees during the summer and down to 20 degrees in the winter. The temperatures don’t kill off any part of the tree only stunts the growth but the snow does make the branches droop and break, the trees are about 10 years old, 10 ft. tall, 10 ft wide and about 3 in at the trunk. Will trimming the trees solve this problem?
No amount of pruning will correct the problem with your camphor trees (Cinnamomum camphora) because you’re growing them in the wrong climate zone. It’s a wonder they have survived. Camphor trees are adapted to grow in Sunset Zones 8, 9, and 12—24. Also they grow in Hawaii, in Zones H1 and H2. They are not adapted to growing in the high Sierra’s which explains why they are stunted with thin trunks and cannot bear the weight of snow. Get rid of them and plant something properly adapted to the place where you live. Look around you and see some trees that grow well and that you like and plant those.
We have a Camphor that is at least 75 years old and is growing next to our house. Our living room windows face it and creates a beautiful view. It has come to our attention that the roots are possibly growing into the house and we are concerned about damage to the foundation. We are searching for arborists who can tell us how to trim the roots without harming the tree and if it’s possible to trim enough to protect our house without harming the tree. There is a possibility of having a copper root guard buried between the tree and the house. Have you ever heard of this and would you recommend?
Your house is more important than your tree. My opinion is that you have little choice and must save the house. I do wonder, though, how close the tree is to the house? An arborist, who can stand there and look at the situation might be able to tell you in advance from his or her experience how much damage the tree is likely to undergo, but since you have to do the job anyway, what good will that do? Most tree roots are in the top 2 or 3 feet of the soil. Think of a driveway invaded by surface roots. Eventually the homeowner has to dig out the pavement and cut off and remove those roots and repair the drive. Unless the tree is standing right on the edge of the driveway there is usually little damage to an old established tree. If your tree is 30 or more feet from the house, my belief is that die-back will be minimal. On the other hand, if your tree is within ten or twelve feet of the house the tree is likely to show some damage on the side facing the house. Let me give you an example: If a person cuts through roots and digs a planting hole 2 or 3 feet deep and 2 or 3 feet wide that is within three or four feet of the trunk of an established tree, the tree will survive but all the branches on that side of the tree are likely to die back to the trunk all the way up to the top. The rest of the branches would be fine but when you have cut off the dead branches, this will result in a one-sided tree. In your case, I would throw caution to the winds and before the situation gets any worse, dig a ditch about three feet deep as close as possible to your home without harming the foundation. I would then cut through and remove all the roots on the outside edge of the trench. Use a chain saw if necessary. Then install a root barrier that is three feet deep. After that refill the trench with top soil and hope for the best. If your tree shows some damage, next fall, winter or spring, hire an arborist to remove the damaged branches and balance the tree as he sees fit. This is when an arborist can help because a good tree man knows how to leave a tree looking good after pruning. All damage to the tree, if there is any, will be on the side of the tree facing the house. If the tree is artistically pruned, you may be able to save your house and keep most of the lovely view of the tree you now have.
On the other hand if the tree is massacred by a bad pruner, your tree will never look as good as it does now.
if you prune some of the branches at the same time as the roots, then you wont get the branch die-off.
there will be less leaf area to supply water and nutrients too.
that way, you can pick and choose the branches you want, and make it more aesthetic.
That is a very helpful and creative comment. Thank you so much!
Hello,
I live in Ventura County, CA, about 10 miles from the ocean. I have 7 camphor trees that are 2 and a half years old. They are about 15 – 18 feet tall and the crowns are still only about 4 – 5 feet wide with frequent leaf loss and withering. Also, the trees have not produced any flowers or berries since they were planted. I’m not sure of what to do to help them.
Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Neal
Camphor trees are slow growing. I hope you planted them 30 feet apart to allow for eventual size (50 feet tall, 60 feet wide), otherwise their roots will be competing with each others. These trees have invasive roots and spreading surface roots making it difficult to grow anything else under or near them. Their roots get into pipes. Once established they can take little or much irrigation, but if you think they are taking too long to get established, sounds as if you are not giving them enough water or fertilizer to get them started. The leaf loss and withering may be verticillium wilt, which can happen after a wet winter we did not have, but also might result from poorly drained soil. If the soil is alkaline clay treat with gypsum to increase drainage. Also, applying nitrogen fertilizer and then deep watering can bring trees back after verticillium wilt.
I work for a Southern California city where we have a large quantity of mature Camphors. I have one that is in dire straits with low foliage on the ends of branches but some minor to moderate foliage near the trunk. This tree has a trunk diameter of over 36″ and I desperately want to save it. It is planted in a 5′ parkway and has had some minor root pruning to alleviate damage to curb and gutter. Are there any treatments recommended to help it rebound from its current condition?
Unfortunately, it sounds to me as if this camphor tree was planted in too small a space does not have adequate space for its roots. Eventually it sounds as if it will need to be removed and replaced with something deeper rooted and better adapted to growing in parkways. Pruning the roots on one side of a tree can cause branches to die on that side of the tree. Some trees, such as olive trees, can take that sort of treatment, but not camphor trees. They have many surface and invasive roots and need a large space in which to grow.