Pepper Trees
Gardening Question From Glennis:
We are in escrow of a home in Banning, CA. There are what we believe to be two very large California Pepper trees lining either side of the driveway. I can direct you to the website that will show you the front of the house if you would be so kind as to look (please advise via email and I will give you the site). Perhaps you can tell by appearance if we are correct? They are beautiful, but, we think, need pruning and are concerned about their proximity to the house (especially the sewer line). We would so appreciate your opinion.
Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.
Answer From Pat:
Yes these are California pepper trees and they look wonderful. The last thing I would do would be to cut them down—it would be a tragedy, but if I were you i would have your sewer pipes roto-rooted and then lined to the street. This is one of the most worthwhile expenses I ever did. I lined my sewer lines down to the street. (You can take out a small loan to cover the expense, if necessary.) Then you will have no more roots and no more problems or worries. My incoming water line comes a different way. Down a steep hill and it goes past many trees with invasive roots. It is copper and has never ever been a problem for 60 years.
Photo by kla4067 
Thank you so much, Pat. Your input and recommendations are invaluable to us! I so appreciate your taking the time out of your busy schedule to address my question.
Hi. I planted a 24″ box pepper tree last week. All the leaves are falling off. The leaves at the end of the stems are curling up then falling off. I have giving it a good deep water. Help
Let the hose trickle for hours over the roots. You should have soaked the planting hole with water. If the tree went into dry soil, the surrounding soil sucked all the water from the roots of the tree. Also purchase Humic Acid, mix with water according to package directions and soak the roots with it. This is a powerful root stimulant. Vit B is a total gyp and does nothing. Also phone and talk to the place where you bought the tree. They should stand behind their tree.
Actually this is more of a suggestion of the inquiries about what to grow under a Pepper tree. I like to ask this question myself once in a while. I have had this “problem” for over 30 years in the front yard of my house. I have had some success with allysums. When they drop seeds and they pop up after a while can transplant to more spots under tree. This way is economical and earth friendly. One issue I have found out is in my exasperation with all the peppers and leaves to rake I get too aggressive and take the alyssums with the raking. (Ha) So be careful with new plants. And unfortunately esp. in So Cal where I live have to water more in the beginning.
Thank you for your time and an informative new website for me to learn.
sorry I forgot to mention it is easy to trim, mow, (they come back) and clean up under the alyssums just be gentle.
Good point! Once again thanks for comment. When I was young I lived in Claremont Ca with my husband and children and I went back and taught ancient history as the graduate assistant in Freshman Humanities at the college from which I had graduated (Scripps College.) The woman who owned our rented house asked me not to plant a lawn. Sweet alyssum grew instead. I mowed it and watered it by hand, some birds added grass seeds and our landlady accused me of having planted a lawn against her wishes. I explained that nature had done it and I had merely mown it. She was very understanding but it was a funny situation, since for me everything grew and even the weeds cooperated and became a garden.
Los Angeles has a tree program. City can provide up to 9 trees per household. City provides list of available trees and you choose from the selection. The owner is responsible to plant trees, water, etc.
I choose 3 pepper tree (have no idea if trees are Californian type or Brazilian type). Unfortunately, I learned only today the planting recommendations. The delivered trees were about 4′ height and the trunks thickness about 3/8″. Trees were supported by posts of about 1″ x 1″. The tree were planted 6 months ago. They grew up very quickly. By now, the trees are about 7-8′ height, but the trunks diameter is about the same -1/2″. I continue to raise up the trunk support.
My questions:
1. Why tree trunk is still low in diameter and flexible? Is it OK?
2. For what height tree truck needs support?
Thank you in advance.
Your question is excellent since the answer might help many people. It sounds as if the City of Los Angeles failed to provide you with adequate information on how to plant trees and how to care of trees after planting. No, it is not a good thing that your trees have failed to grow a good strong trunk but luckily this problem can be corrected. The reason most likely that the trunks of your trees failed to grow thick and strong is that they were too tightly tied to stakes and failed to move in the wind.
When young trees are sold, very often they will have a stake tightly tied with green plastic ties to the trunk of the tree. After planting the tree in the ground, the first thing to do is to cut off the green plastic ties and remove the stake. This is because a young tree needs to flex in the wind in order to develop a strong trunk. However, unless the sapling is planted in a very sheltered spot it most likely will need some kind of staking. Most garden supply stores sell tree staking systems that come with instructions but you can make your own. In order to stake a tree properly, one needs to drive two stakes in the ground on opposite sides of the tree and at least three feet away from the tree. Then loop a rubber tree tie around the tree and tie wires from the tree to the stake. (Do not put wire around the trunk since this will damage the bark.) Make the wires loose so that
when a tree has been planted in the ground it will be able to flex back and forth in the wind. As the tree grows, remove the stakes or enlarge the staking system always allowing the tree to move back and forth but not blow over in a strong wind. Another important thing to know is not to prune off the lower branches too early since they help strengthen the trunk while the tree is young.
Since your trees did not receive proper staking when they were planted, be sure to do this now. You will need to hammer very strong stakes in the ground and use three instead of two. If you want, you can use hunks of old garden hose to surround the tree trunk and thread the wires through these loops which you should place above the lowest branch to hold them up. Then tie the wires to the stakes that are driven into the ground most likely 6 or 8 feet away from the tree trunk depending how big your trees now are. Check that the wires are loose enough so the trunk can move back and forth in the wind. I am sure this will make your tree trunks eventually grow strong. Also you can lightly prune off some of the foliage so the tree is not quite as top-heavy.
You said you don’t know which pepper tree you have. They are undoubtedly Peruvian pepper trees (Schinus molle) often called California pepper trees because the Brazilian pepper tree is invasive and prone to sucker.
If you go to the internet and look for the words “how to stake a newly planted tree” you can find pictures of this process, but at this stage you need low stakes hammered into the ground since tall stakes would not be strong enough to hold up your trees in strong winds. Don’t worry too much about your trees since I once saw about 50 California pepper trees planted next to a road and all of them were staked too tightly and had thin trunks. I drove past them the other day for the first time in several years and they are now large trees with thick trunks, despite the fact that I could see some of them had grown into crookedly when young due to improper staking.
Thanks for your wonderful website and all the knowledge you’ve passed on. What a gift!
I live in Encinitas and I planted 8 pepper trees on my lot about a month ago. The root ball on one of them came a bit undone when I was planting and it’s severely stressed. It is losing its bark and has lost all of its leaves. It’s still green at points on the cambium layer, but I am worried that she’s dying. This is extremely distressing for me and I wondering if there’s anything I can do to help revive it?
It is very important that plants get off to a good start at planting time. This is accomplished by following the rules by: providing a planting hole slightly larger that the tree or shrub you are planting, sliding the plant carefully out of the can, loosening the roots and making sure they do not go around and around, supporting the weight of the root ball while placing it down in the hole, surrounding the roots at the bottom of the hole with slow-release plant tabs designed for getting plants off to a good start, refilling the hole with the earth from the planting hole, pushing down firmly with hands not feet, and building a watering basin. Then water as follows: 1. Lay the hose on the ground and let it flow slowly into the hole, until the rootball is thoroughly saturated. 2. Water deeply three times a week the first two weeks after planting. 3. Water twice a week for the next month week. 4. Water once a week for the next year.
If the weight of the root ball broke off roots when you planted the tree, it would be better to replace the tree.
Hello,
We live in Encinitas and have two beautiful, mature California Pepper Trees in our back yard. The trunk of one of them is about 14 feet from our old garage that we are considering making into a livable unit. It’s canopy extends in one area above the garage. We were thinking of expanding the unit five more feet in the direction of the tree… But…then the tree would be about 9 feet from the structure. Would digging an area for a concrete slab that close to this tree weaken or kill the tree? We certainly would not want to do that. How far from the tree trunk is a safe distance to dig without harming it? Could you also suggest an arborist to come out and give us advice as well? Thanks so much for your help!
Sarah
First: I am sorry but I cannot recommend an arborist. That is not the sort of thing I do. If you want to hire an arborist look up references. Some of them are really good. Others are not worth the money you pay for them. The problem is that being an arborist is like an organized religion. Sometimes they have to do what the book says. For example, cut out all crossing branches. This can weaken limbs of some trees and make them break and crash to the ground. That happened with a friend of mine who had a gorgeous spreading Tipu tree. An arborist cut out the crossing limbs and the long spreading branches cracked and fell to the ground, ruining this gorgeous tree. Many trees make natural grafts in wind. Tipu trees make natural grafts in tropical forests. These strengthen the tree and help it grow in difficult conditions. Natural grafts are natures way to buttress branches, yet all arborists books say to cut them out.
Re: The well-being of your pepper tree: Of course the best thing for the tree would be to leave things the way they are. There is no way for me to tell you if digging and building a concrete slab 5 feet into the root zone of this tree would or would not weaken the tree. I can tell you, however, that it would be likely to weaken the tree somewhat but on one side only, because you would be cutting out some roots on that side. This might cause branches on that side of the tree to die back. If that happens you might have to prune off those dead limbs. If you prune major branches on a pepper tree this can lead eventually to rot. This process however would take some years.
Here is my suggestion: Sometimes life offers difficult choices, but wise people make these choices and live a better life because of it. I have in the past sometimes taken 10 years to make an important decision, but once having made that decision, then “damn the torpedo’s full speed ahead!”
According to this philosophy: If you really want to make your garage into a livable space and you also love this tree, weigh the two alternatives against each other. If you love the tree more than you want to change the garage, then leave the tree as is. If on the other hand making your garage into a livable space will actually be an excellent move and enhance your life, then go ahead and do it, while cutting off the fewest roots possible.
The tree might be harmed but it will not die. If you later hate the way it looks, cut it down, remove the stump and plant something better or the same thing again.
I am now 89 years old. In my life I have had to make many difficult choices. I am always happy when I do not dither forever, but make a choice, then plunge in and go ahead fearlessly, knowing what the consequences will be. In my garden, for example, I recently cut down to the ground a hedge that was very beautiful but which my gardener had allowed to grow too tall between my garden and the ocean view. On the other hand it was great wind protection in the upper patio and one could sit up there in the sun and be protected from the breeze. A year ago I made my decision: Stop trying to cut the hedge shorter. I have tried that for years and it didn’t work. Instead, I said to my gardener “Please cut this hedge to the ground.” He looked shocked but he did it. Now my view is about 1,000 times better than it has ever been in the 60 years I have lived here. Sure the non-stop cold wind blows (one result of climate change where I live.) But we can wear jackets if we need them and meanwhile we still have the more protected “winter patio” lower on the property that has no ocean view. (I have long advocated having 2 patios one for summer and one for winter.)
One more thought: Yes, we sometimes make mistakes in life, but decisions are always good for the soul!
I hope you are still going strong! What a privilege to have this opportunity
to contact you. I love your philosophical outlook on living. I will be 82 this
summer and like you, have not decided I am so old that I must sit in a chair
waiting to die.
I have a volunteer California pepper tree. It came up in my yard, I think because my neighbor has one and because I wanted one. Just like for years I wanted a
plant that had the most lovely shade of light blue flowers. One day I saw them
growing on my back fence! I later found out they were called plumbago.
I consider them gifts.
Back to the little seedling . I dug it up and put it in a small pot to better see that it would be watered. Last year I planted it in the ground. My concern is it has numerous shoots from the base, 3 are larger and of these, 1 reaches 5 feet.
Should I snip the smaller ones off or just leave things alone. Also, it is blooming.
The tree is several years old.
Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
God Bless You in All Ways.
Namaste
Peach
Are you the Peach I once knew? If so I meet so many people, please remind me when and where?
First: To your pepper tree. Yes by all means choose the tallest sprout and keep cutting off the other suckers which are sprouting up from shallow roots. Leave low branches growing on the one you choose. These will help the trunk to thicken and grow strong. Later cut them off. Also I would cut back the top where you want it to branch unless it has already branched. Five feet sounds too tall for the lowest branch on a pepper tree. Read a pruning book on training young trees so you will know how to choose branches at various heights and get rid of the rest. Branches that grow across from each other at the same exact height mean a weak joint.
Additionally, re: the flowers: Both male and female trees have flowers. You will know if you have a female tree when it sets fruit. If no fruit, it’s a male tree. Nice thing about the female trees is that they bring birds.
Now to your kind comments: Yes, thanks I am still going strong at 89. My birthday was yesterday. I was able to renew my drivers license this week—very grateful to have passed the test with only one error. Now I can drive another 5 years until I have to renew my license next time.
I am looking forward to the Plein Air Convention in San Francisco which will be at the Hilton on Union Square in April next year. I plant to drive both ways in my car with a friend who’s also a painter, loves to volunteer at the Convention and loves road trips as much as I do. We plan to go via Rt. One which is gorgeous in April.
So you see I still love to travel. I went to Egypt for 2 weeks earlier this year, finished my little sketchbook I always do instead of photos and it was a grand adventure. A couple I met on the trip asked me to travel with them again next year. We are meeting next week to discuss plans.
I’m still writing books—have almost finished my next one—though sadly not on gardening since publishers are no longer interested in publishing regional books. I can understand why!…..There are no local bookstores to sell them!
I paint with friends one day a week in my garden and hope to paint every day for the last 10 years of my life as my Dad did. However instinctively I think it’s to soon to begin and I have at least one more book I want to write after this one.
My garden is gorgeous this year and everything is in bloom at once. I have now lived in my house for 60 years and hope to stay here indefinitely. Thus I am fixing it up: have rebuilt all pergolas and arbors and patio trellises, cut back overgrown plants and they are re-growing. I replaced the roof on the house and replaced all my 11 skylights with new ones and much more. It’s kept me busy for a year.
Does berries provide pink pepper essential oil as a economic benefit?
How much pink pepper in kg/Gram we can obtain per tree from 2nd year onwards? Sametime I want to know that the weight of pink pepper in kg/Gram per cutting or per season? Does harvesting for berries done 8 times in 2 months (per week cutting 4weeksx2months)?
As male trees doesn’t have flowers, fruits are they economically burden in professional pink pepper tree farming? If they must for pollination & fruits, what should be female to male ratio and how to arrange them together to get much.. much… berries for essential oil purpose?
Do NOT eat the peppers from Brazilian pepper trees. The common name, “Pepper trees” is a dangerous misnomer since people then think these seeds are edible when they are not. A plant with the botanical name Piper nigrum is the source of edible pepper corns. Please be aware: Brazilian pepper trees (Schinus terebinthifolius) are NOT a source of edible peppers and NOT a source of edible oil. The seeds of Brazilian pepper trees are not safe to ingest.