Potting Soil for Planter Box
Question from Judy:
Great website. I just found you. My husband just built a planter box 38x48x12deep. It is on wheels so i can move it to get sun both summer and winter. My growing space is small with everything planted. I have removed much of the none editable landscape. If I can’t eat it I don’t want to waste water on it. Blueberrys are pretty shrub. and strawberrys a good groundcover. What I need to know is what type of soil mix would you put into this planter box that I will use for lettuce carrots spinich etc.?? I am thinking of a pearlite, peatmoss, topsoil combo??
Answer from Pat:
What your husband has built for you is basically a large, portable planting container, not a raised bed. If he had built a raised bed on the ground I would have told you to fill it with good quality amended garden soil and put wire on the bottom against gophers. Raised beds are the same as terraces and need to be filled with soil, not potting soil which is for containers. But this is not a raised bed, it is an enclosed container. All containers should be filled with good quality potting soil, not garden soil, since properly constituted potting soil is lighter in weight than soil and also provides appropriate drainage for use in containers. Garden soil, with mighty few exceptions, does not drain well in containers. (Some decomposed granite soils, such as those found in Claremont California, work well in containers but these soils are few and far between.)
It is possible for home gardeners to mix their own potting soils as you have suggested you might do, but I don’t recommend this practice. Also, you suggest including garden soil as one of the ingredients. I would strongly warn against this, since one of the advantages of growing plants in a container is that you avoid the possibility of pathogens and pests, such as nematodes, which might be found in garden soil. Also, garden soil can sift down and clog drainage holes. Additionally, it is heavy when wet. One of the advantages of using potting soil in containers is that it is lighter weight than garden soil.
Gardeners do love recipes and so I provide a good one for making homemade soilless potting soil on page 25 of in my month-by-month garden published this year. This recipe is based on a recipe originally devised by Cornell University, for making one’s own potting soil. I have made it myself on television years ago and things grew well in it, and you can do it to if you want to. But my own experience has shown me that even with a good recipe it’s a struggle for a home gardener to mix a good-quality homemade potting soil. Doing so creates a lot of dust which is not good for one’s lungs, and it’s actually cheaper in the long run to purchase a high-quality commercial bagged potting soil. It’s hard to make just the right amount needed and then you need to store the rest. Storage is a problem. Reliable companies that make potting soils subject their products to extensive tests before selling them to the public and you can purchase just what you need. Also, you can find potting soils that are especially designed for growing vegetables and say so on the package. If you cannot find one of these I suggest that you add a gallon or two of aged bagged chicken manure to the mix in the box.
Before filling your box with potting soil, be sure to cover each of the drainage holes with a large enough piece of broken crockery to permit water to drain out and the soil mix to be safely held back within the container. Even using potting soil in this container it’s going to be heavy when wet and due to its shape it will need several drainage holes distributed on the bottom. The advantage with potting soils is they drain well but also the shape and size of this container means it will dry out far quicker than in the ground. Be sure to water accordingly, perhaps even daily in warm weather. Be sure to add organic fertilizer recommended for vegetables according to package directions prior to planting. And each season before planting again, remove some of the top of the old mix and add some fresh potting soil on top.
I’m happy to know you like my site and thank you so much for saying so. I have a partner, Loren Nelson, who does all the web design and technical side. I answer all letters and provide all written content. The difference between my site and garden “forums” is that folks who write to me get prompt, practical, thoughtful, and reliable answers to their questions, that are often exhaustive and always based on the best scientific research and organic principles, plus good common sense. The only time there is a wait is when I’m on vacation.
Thank you Pat. My box will have good drainage as we used redwood fence slats for the bottom. I am planning to cover the bottom with garden cloth to keep the soil from sifting out with time. I was planning to go up to the City Farm Nursery today to get the planting mix. Will I find good soil there or should I try Walter Anderson. I have never been to city farm nursery but I was told they do more organic things then Walter Anderson. I got antsy a couple of weeks ago and started my heirloom tomatoes seed that I had saved from last year. I had never saved tomato seeds before but let them ferment to get the gel coat off and—Voila!—Each seed that I planted grew.
They now have their second set of leaves. Thank you for all you do. I hope to get into your class on the 2nd of April at USD.
When you go to the nursery be sure to take along the dimensions of the box so you know how much potting soil to purchase.
City Farm carries bulk products as well as bagged. They should have a good potting soil for your needs and so should Walter Anderson. I don’t recommend using potting soils that include polymers since these can lead to soggy soil and insufficient drainage. Fungus problems may result.
I’m delighted to hear that your tomato seeds sprouted so easily. Be sure to fertilize the little plants with a diluted solution of liquid fish now that they have two sets of leaves. Have you heard that the latest thing is heirloom tomatoes grafted onto disease-resistant roots? This seems to prevent many pathogens, such as those causing Early Blight and Late Blight, from getting started. I have thought of trying it myself. (You can see instructions on U-Tube, but it could be done in simpler manner than they show.) Glad to hear you might be getting into my class on April 2.
Hi, I just finished building vegetable boxes that are 6’X3’X2′ with an open bottom and I am planning on sitting them right on top of the soil without a liner or chicken wire because I haven’t had a problem with gofers. Do you think I need to drill drainage holes in the sides? I didn’t think I needed drain holes because the bottom of the box is open and my soil in the garden is pretty good. Also, do you think I should include a water line for a soaker hose for each box? Lastly what kind of soil would you recommend and where can I purchase it? Thanks Ann
Do not fail to nail 1/2 inch gauge hardware cloth or “gopher wire” under your beds. Once you begin raising vegetables, gophers will find you eventually. It may take them a few years but take my word for it, sooner of later they’ll get there. You do not need to make drainage holes on the sides. That would be a bad idea and totally useless since water goes straight down, not sideways. You should put in water lines if you can, but it’s not necessary and you could do it later. But if you put in waterlines now, you could automate the watering eventually and when you are busy or out of town your veggies would not die. I cannot advise you on soil. I only can say this: Purchase the best top soil you can (not potting soil) and fill your boxes with that. You will have to do your own research and ask the Master Gardeners, the President of your local garden club or other gardeners near you. Any of these may have recommendations or be able to suggest a way to find the answer to your question.