Climbing Patio Plants
(A “vine” is correctly called a “climber.” The word vine comes from vineyard and actually only applies to grapes. Climbing roses are not vines but when we call all climbing plants climbers, climbing roses can also be lumped in with the group.)
- Blood red trumpet (Distictus buccinatoria).
- Bougainvillea, variegated ivy, Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides).
- Bower vine (Pandorea jasminoides).
- Coral Pea, Lilac vine (Hardenbergia ‘Happy Wanderer’) Long winter color in sun.
- Cup of Gold (Solandra maxima).
- Easter lily vine (Beaumontia grandiflora).
- Lady Banks rose (Rosa banksiae, and R. banksiae lutea).
- Lavender trumpet vine (Clytostoma calistegioides).
- Mexican flame vine (Pyrostegia venusta), spectacular winter color.
- Sweatheart climbing rose (Rosa ‘Cecille Brunner’, cl.).
- Variegated ivy (Hedera helix ‘Little Diamond’) or other variety
I have a beautiful Easter Lily Vine growing on either side of the gates to my carport. It has looked spectacular for over 20 years, lush, shiney leaves and large trumpet flowers. Suddenly it has started yellowing, browning of leaves, then the leaves began falling off. I have not changed any of the minimal care I give to it. I live in 92103, the vine gets perfect sun (afternoon, but not blazing sun). It looks like it is dying! Can you help?
Easter lily vine (Beaumontia grandiflora) is one of the most delightful and spectacular plants that grows in Southern California. It needs regular water. Drought—for example if it is not getting enough irrigation, that is if there has been a change and water has been suddenly reduced, this might kill the plant. Overwatering could do the same. Easter lily vine also does best in well-drained soil that contains plenty of organic matter. If the soil becomes depleted over time and the plant has used up everything in its root zone and suddenly does not have enough fertilizer or organics in the soil to feed it with adequate nitrogen, this could create a sudden death knell. Our natural soils do not contain enough nutrients to support exotic plants. We have to provide the correct amount of fertilizer, mulch and water that nature would provide in the natural home from which the plant hales. Regular fertilizing with a balanced and preferably organic fertilizer (NPK plus trace minerals) produces the best results. John and Bob’s Soil Optimizer is also a helpful product and can be applied along with fertilizer. Do not over-fertilize! Additionally, check for pests. If you find signs of spider mite, wash off the plant and cover the roots with dry bagged earthworm castings. Spraying with light summer oil might also help. Also look behind leaves for other sucking insects that might be infecting the plant. That said, the most common causes of leaf drop are overly wet or overly dry conditions, sudden changes in temperature—a blast of heat or cold, or some kind of shock to the plant. If the soil is compacted with people walking on the root zone or machinery or if roots are damaged or cut or if drainage worsens for some reason, or the sun or shade suddenly changes, such as a tree growing bigger or alternatively, cut down— or if a plant is growing in a container or confined space, even if large, and suddenly its own roots or the roots of a tree such as eucalyptus clog the drainage hole—any of these things might cause leaf drop with an established plant and might cause death to the plant. I hope by reading all this you can figure out what is wrong and correct the problem. If it dies, remove the plant. Then fix the root zone by digging and amending with compost and organic fertilizer and if the soil is clay, putting gypsum in bottom of planting hole to improve drainage and plant another.