Answer from Pat:
Trees that will survive on the oceanfront in Southern California include the following: Monterey cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa), Leyland cypress (x Cupressocyparis leylandii), flooded gum tree (Eucalyptus rudis), bushy yate (E. conferruminata usually sold as E. lehmannii), compact sugar gum (E. cladocalilyx ‘Nana’), flame eucalyptus (E. ficifolia), rustyleaf fig (Ficus rubiginosa), cajeput tree (Melaleuca quinquenervia), New Zealand Christmas tree (Metrosideros excelsa), M collina ‘Spring Fire’ or ‘Figi’; palm trees including Brahea edulis, Butia capitata, Chamerops, cocos, Phoenix canariensis, P. dactylifer, P.reclinata, Sabal blackburniana, S. palmetto, Washingtonia robusta; Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis), shore pine (P. contorta), Bosnian pine (P. heldreichii), Bishop pine (P. muricata),) Italian stone pine (P. pinea), holly oak (Quercus ilex), and California laurel (Umbellaria californica).

Shrubs that will survive on the oceanfront in Southern California include:strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo), natal plum (Carissa macrocarpa), rockrose (Cistus), wire netting plant (Corokia cotoneaster), Australian fuchsia (Correa), hop bush (Dodonaea viscosa), lemon leaf (Eleagnus), pink flowered shrub (Escallonia), evergreen euonumus (Euonymus japonicus), Grisiliana, needle bush (Hakea), Hebe, Juniperus (several), Kalanchoe, Lantana, lavender (Lavandula), tea tree (Leptospermum), Melaleuca, oleander (Nerium oleander), Jerusalem sage (Phlomis), Pittosporum crassifolium, P. tobira, Protea compacta, Italian buckthorn (Rhamnus alaternus), Rhaphiolepis, lemonade berry (Rhus integrifolia), Ramana rose (Rosa rugosa), rosemary (Rosmarinus officianalis), evergreen viburnum (Viburnum), coast rosemary (Westringea fruticosa)

Perennials that will survive on the oceanfront in Southern California include: yarrow (Achillea), agapanthus, Tree aloe (Aloe arborescens) and others, sea pink (Armeria maritima), Artemisia, Carex, Jupiters beard (Centranthus ruber), Cape rush (Chondropetalum elephantinum), marguerite (Chrysanthemum frutescens), ground morning glory (Convolvulus sabatius), Dianthus, Pride of Madeira (Echium candicans), seaside daisy (Erigeron), buckwheat (Eriogonum), Euphorbia (several types), Euryops, blue marguerite (Felicia amelloides), Gazania, Iceplants (many kinds), sea lavender (Limonium pereziii), Pink muhlie grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris), Mexican feather grass (Nassella tenuissima), garden geraniums of all kinds (Pelargonium), New Zealand flax (Phormium), lavender cotton (Santolina), Succulents of many varieties—(virtually all of them. I have seen whole gardens of succulents on the cliffs overlooking the sea), and Yucca. Among flowering bulbs try Naked ladies (Amaryllus belladonna). Years ago great drifts of these bulbs made a huge show with aloes, thriving and blooming their heads off on bare cliffs overlooking the sea.

For annuals try nasturtiums planted in fall and coastal wildflowers also planted in fall. Water them to get them started. In dry areas with no summer water, try the California native plants sea dahlia (Coreopsis maritima) and giant sea dahlia (Coreopsis gigantea). Neither of these can take any summer water unless provided by Mother Nature herself.

Good choices for potted plants that will survive on the oceanfront in Southern California include many kinds of geraniums and succulents. Use rocks, pebbles, stepping stones, shells, bottles, driftwood, bleached rope, and flotsam and jetsam to create interest in your seaside garden. You can even fill an old rowboat with garden soil and use it as a raised bed. All of the plants mentioned here are good anywhere close to the coast. In back of the house in a sunny spot out of the wind and in a raised bed or a rowboat you could even grow vegetables and herbs. Surround the rowboat with scented geraniums for a great look.

Related posts:

1. Native Plants Of Southern California’s Coastal Zones
2. Beach Front Plants for English Seacoast Gardens
3. Native Plants of the Southern California Coast

Question from Forrest:

Btw, if you know anywhere I might be able to buy or try such winter squash, I’d love to know-especially Marina di Chioggia or any of the Aussie Blues!

Answer from Pat:
Thanks for your kind words. There is a catalogue for heirloom vegetables including many squashes—Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds http://rareseeds.com/ They carry Marina di Chiogga. Send for a copy of their wonderful catalogue. You will be able to find Marina di Chiogga, Australian Butter (though not blue) and dozens of other exciting heirloom varieties with extraordinary shapes and colors. The photographs are a delight. In Rancho Santa Fe a friend of mine grows the handsome and delicious Musquee de Provence but I am not sure if the weather is warm enough on Mango Drive to get a good harvest. It’s worth a try however. Bees are very important for pollination. Be sure to watch my video on that.

Winter squash grow wonderfully well in Del Mar. I have often grown them myself. But you cannot grow winter squash in the winter. Despite their name, all winter squash varieties are summer vegetables. Not simply a summer vegetable either, but a vegetable that needs to be planted when the weather has gotten somewhat warm and then it must have a long warm season with lots of sunshine in order to thrive. The variety I grew in Del Mar with great success was “Sweet Mama” I tried some other varieties but this one did the best and gave me the largest harvest of good flavorful squashes. It was an All America variety and these are pretty easy. But those old European varieties taste the best and are far more handsome and exciting to grow. Most of them need a long hot summer. Maybe where you live a bit back from the beach, and with more sunshine up on the mesa you will have greater success than I did.

The reason that winter squash bears that name is not because it grows in winter but because it keeps through the winter. People used to harvest these squashes in fall and them store them in root cellars and eat them all winter. Plant winter squash in well prepared soil in April in full sun. All summer vegetables need full sun and correct spacing. Winter squashes grow on big vines and need plenty of room. Follow package directions. Water deeply and not too frequently and you should have good success. March is the first month in which to plant summer vegetables but too early for planting winter squash.

Related posts:

1. Winter Squash
2. Heirloom Tomatoes
3. Problems Growing Squash in Containers

Question from Robin:

Answer from Pat:
Corn Gluten Meal works well as an organic product to use as a pre-emergent weed killer for use on lawns. Now several companies are making it. All of them work equally well as far as I can tell. They are widely available at nurseries and farm supply stores, especially nurseries that carry organic products. This usually cuts out the big box stores. Look in fine nurseries. Or simply Google the product and find a mail order source. But I have found this product in a bright yellow bag, with or without organic fertilizer added, in several local nurseries, including a well-known chain nursery only a mile or two from my house. Look among the products for lawns. I think the message here is when you have a generic product that can be copyrighted but not patented, sound alikes are fine. All these companies are using the same technology, and my experience is that if you follow the directions properly, it works.

Related posts:

1. Shrimp Shell Meal
2. Vegetables in Raised Beds: Problems with Yellow Leaves
3. Corn

Question from Ica:

Answer from Pat:
Spent brewery grains are an excellent additive to the compost pile, but they vary in characteristics. Some beer companies are learning to use them to make compost and other companies are also recycling them for use as mushroom compost. They can also be used to feed worm bins. Composted brewery grains are one of the ingredients in Milorganite and contribute a lot of its nitrogen.

Most spent brewery grains when used in the compost pile can be classed as a nitrogenous waste (a fast, hot, “green” ingredient, like grass clippings). Layer with some carbonaceous materials such as dry leaves to make a nitrogen-rich compost. Brewery grains can be especially beneficial if you have a bin composter since they are nitrogenous and are easy to compost but need tossing to maintain their warmth. You may have to add some wood shavings to keep the compost from getting too smelly. Brewery grains are likely to be very smelly already when you first pick them up, so get them as quickly as you can after use. Some grains also have allelopathic qualities, that is, like corn gluten meal, they can prevent seeds from germinating. Composting them may not kill this action. Thus I would use this compost in areas of the garden where you don’t intend to plant from seeds and where you would like to prevent weeds from growing. Before using this compost in the vegetable garden, try planting some radish seeds in a container of potting mix mixed with the compost to make sure the seeds germinate easily.

Spent brewery grains are not a good material for mulching due to the fact that they are too smelly and also attract animals. Spent brewery grains that are very soft, wet, and smelly can be dug directly into the soil, as you asked, since they are already well on their way to breaking down and will release nitrogen in the form of gas directly into the ground in a form that plant roots can absorb. On the other hand, spent brewery grains that have been allowed to dry out or cake and get hard should not be added directly to the garden soil. These would subtract nitrogen from the soil in order to rot. Also they will act more like carbonaceous waste in the compost pile. You will need to add water to them so they can puff up again and get going. (When brewery grains are hard and dry some gardeners even recommend layering them with grass clippings to add nitrogen to them, but this does sound odd since the grains themselves are classes as nitrogenous. Under normal circumstances the grains should provide the nitrogenous waste and what you would need to add, if anything, is carbonaceous waste.)

One easy way to compost these left over grains and increase the organic matter in your soil is simply to dig trenches, for example between the rows in your vegetable or cut-flower garden, pour the grain in there, cover it over with soil, and let the worms do the composting.

Related posts:

1. How to Create a Hot Compost Pile
2. New Gardener – Composting for Two
3. Horse Manure Compost

Question from Michelle:

Then last night I got into bed and realized—oh dear I never watered the citrus trees! I was doing so many tasks that I simply forgot. I have turned the sprinklers on and am watering them now, but my question is will the roots get burned?

Answer from Pat:
Don’t worry about your citrus trees.

The purpose of watering well after spreading fertilizer is simply to water the fertilizer into the ground.  The reason is that a certain amount of nitrogen escapes into the air unless one waters it in immediately after spreading it or unless there is a good rain. (This is why we often fertilize ahead of rain.) When one uses synthetic fertilizer more nitrogen is lost into the air than when one uses organics, which are slower acting. Leaving dry synthetic fertilizer lying on top of the ground thus somewhat reduces the amount of nitrogen you gave your trees and for this reason is not a good practice, but it will not make a huge difference. Luckily it will not burn your trees. Dry fertilizer lying on top of the ground does not harm plants, it only harms the fertilizer.

On the other hand, fertilizing when the ground is completely dry and then watering inadequately afterwards can result in burned roots because strong nitrogen may hit dry roots, thus burning them. This problem is most often seen with lawns. Fertilizing a lawn when the ground is bone dry is a good way to burn it, even when using chicken manure. The safest time to fertilize a lawn is when the soil is moist but the blades of grass are dry, but even if the ground is bone dry you can perhaps avoid burning a lawn by watering deeply and well after spreading the fertilizer.

These are the reasons why I always say “Water deeply after fertilizing” or “Water the fertilizer in well.” The main point here is that in this specific case you did no harm. Also, it is wise of you to gradually use up your old fertilizers when you find them. Always follow package directions regarding amounts to use.

Related posts:

1. Fertilizing and Rain
2. Fertilizing Deciduous Fruit Trees
3. Grafting Avocado Trees

Question from Lee:

In recent years, ladybugs have taken their voracious appetites around the world, and they don’t just gobble up target insects. Couple this with plagues of ladybugs infesting homes, and you’ve got an unseemly problem on your hands.

To fight their spread, flightless ladybugs were released as a biological control agent. The idea being that the walk-only ladybugs wouldn’t spread as far as quick. Harlequin’s aren’t to be put off it would seem. The two types of ladybugs can hybridize, giving rise to offspring that are larger, faster-growing, and generally more robust than either of its parent species. Preliminary research suggests that the cross-bred young are even better-equipped to deal with starvation.

The findings by BenoÎt Facon of UMR Centre de Biologie et de Gestion des Populations in Cedex, France, and his colleagues are just a beginning. Researchers want to test multiple generations of hybrid and subject them to different conditions to unravel the magnitude of the Harlequin ladybug dilemma.

You can read more about their discoveries in the current issue of Evolutionary Applications.

Answer from Pat:
According to the link you sent me, the beetle you photographed is a Multicolored Asian Ladybeetle (Harmonia axyridis), an exotic insect introduced into the United States in order to control pests. This insect may be one of the exotic species that is hybridizing with our native ladybugs. The photographs below are said to show some of these hybrids including one photo that appears similar though not exactly the same as the beetle you found in Del Mar. (Second row up, second from the left.)

I had heard of the Cornell study involving backyard biologists looking for lost ladybugs. They found a ladybug species that was thought to have disappeared from New York. But here is some less cheery news: It seems as if some of these exotic introduced ladybugs are hybridizing with our native ladybugs and morphing into new insects that may actually upset the balance of nature. Our native ladybugs are beneficial types that eat pests, especially aphids, but according to some studies I have read that these new insects are fast-spreading and voracious, though non-flying, and may also eat a larger range of insects than we want them to eat.

When I saw your ladybug photo yesterday I wondered about it because of its orange color and smudgy spots. I had heard of orange ladybugs used as beneficials in the Sacramento Valley, but was not sure what yours was. The ladybugs shown in the photos below are listed as Harlequin-ladybugs, not the beneficial ones we are familiar with but possibly harmful hybrids. (Their habits are being studied.) You were wise to report your find to the Lost Ladybug study. Thank you for doing that and thank you for sharing your photo with me and with my readers.

Related posts:

1. Mandarine Oranges/Southern California
2. Fragrant Plant in Southern California
3. Native Plants of the Southern California Coast

My question is about Agonis flexuosa. I’ve planted three of the ‘After Dark’ dark foliaged trees in full sun (Sunset 23) from 3 gallon containers. They are now about 12′ tall.

They’re becoming beautiful small trees, but so far are slim and lanky. Do they require any corrective pruning in their youth? Can I tip back for greater bushiness? So far I’ve done nothing to them but let them grow. Thank you!

Answer from Pat:
I have seen Agonis flexuosa ‘Jervis Bay After Dark’ in nursery cans and display gardens at the county fair and elsewhere. Monrovia Nursery website has a very pretty photo of one growing in a raised bed with wide foliage and looks like a skinny trunk. I have seen other photos that make it look like more of a shrub than a tree. Monrovia says you have to water deeply and often the first year to develop a large root system. After that it’s drought resistant. They also say it’s slow growing to 15 or 25 feet and 10 to 15 feet wide. I have yet to see a full grown one and I have wondered if it is mainly a screen plant or novelty item. But my guess is that only time will tell how well this tree grows in California long term. Meanwhile I would leave the lower branches on as long as possible to encourage the trunk to grow strong. Also don’t stake too tightly. Let it sway in the wind to grow a strong trunk. Also, yes I would pinch back the sides, especially the lower branches take off a foot at least to encourage strength and branching, and do not cut back the top leader or you will dwarf it and make it grow wide instead of tall. Follow the usual guidelines for developing a good branch structure in trees.

Related posts:

1. How Far to Plant Peppermint willow (Agonis) and Australian willow (Geijera parvifolia) from walls and paving
2. Colorful Very Low Shrubs And Trees For Banks
3. Newly Purchased Lime Tree

Question from Heather:

Answer from Pat: Prune lavendar as soon as the main blossom season has finished. Lavendar needs full sun. Otherwise it will grow towards the light and become uneven. Prune it after bloom by shearing the plant all over removing all the blooms and at least an inch or two of foliage. Don’t cut it back into bare wood, however. Only shear away of some of the gray green foliage and all of the blossoms. Some lavenders bloom mostly in spring, others in summer, some year round and others twice a year. The year round one’s are best sheared following spring bloom and again lightly in fall. Strive for a nice smooth rounded shape. By shearing lavender this way after bloom you can keep it more compact and help it to live longer. If growing in very poor soil, fertilize lightly after shearing with a balanced organic fertilizer and follow up with irrigation.

Related posts:

1. Pruning New Zealand Christmas tree close to a swimming pool
2. Pruning Sweetshade, Hawaiian Wedding Tree (Hymenosporum flavum)
3. Pruning of Ground Morning Glory (Convolvulus)

Question from Tom:

I am comfortable with pruning and watering the trees. What nutrients my trees need is a mystery to me. I am not sure how much fertilizer to use and I am confused by all of the micro nutrients such as iron. Currently I have been using a Kellogg organic fruit tree fertilizer in late spring on the stone fruit. I use Vigoro citrus fertilizer every 2-3 months on the citrus. I sprinkle a few small handfuls under the drip line and water during application.

My citrus leaves have a tendency to eventually become yellow and or pale. Some of my stone fruit leaves have purplish red spots and leaf edges (not curl). My bareroot cherry trees have some yellowing leaves that have been randomly dropping like they would in the fall when going dormant.

My soil is about 70% sand and 30% clay with varying amounts of organic material depending on the area of my yard. By itself my soil has a tendency to dry out in the summer and become as hard as cement. I have placed about 2-3 inches of mulch to keep the soil moist. The soil pH ranges from 6.5 to 7.0. I am concerned that my soil may be part of the problem.

Does it sound like I am fertilizing enough? I am considering hiring a consultant to analyze my situation. Do you have any recommendations?

Answer from Pat:
Fertilizing citrus trees is a big topic handled in depth on pages 63, 64, and 65 of my new organic book and in all my previous month-by-month books. There are several ways to go and choices to be made according to the needs and likes and dislikes of the gardener. Basically, citrus are big feeders and need up to 1 pound of pure nitrogen per year for a mature tree and proportionally less for smaller trees. They also need phosphorus, potassium, and trace elements in lesser amounts. Since I have covered this topic in such detail and length in my new organic book, and because without copying those three pages here I cannot provide all the details I must suggest you refer to this book, either your own copy or go to the library and read it there. Suffice it to say that most home gardeners starve their citrus trees, but also that there is no way or need for an organic gardener to exactly translate one pound of actual nitrogen and other requirements into products you buy on a shelf, though technically that would be one way to go. The real task for the organic gardener is to build up the organic content of the soil which in turn creates the microbial action to create and release natural nitrogen. Many suggestions for what to use are given on page 63 and 64 including the fact that many organic gardeners simply mulch their trees with a layer of horse manure under the canopy and drip line and beyond with horse manure and let the rains wash it in. (Don’t pile manure or mulch against the trunk.) Beginning this late, you have lost the chance to fertilize prior to February bloom. Organic fertilizers take time to work. Nonetheless, mulch the trees and fertilize now with the organic products you have, using more than suggested (of organic fertilizers, only, not of synthetic fertilizers), water in deeply, and continue to feed through the warm seasons of the year.

Regarding deciduous fruits, the jury is still out on feeding these and this is why so little information is out there for gardeners to access. For many years I have been investigating the results of agricultural experiments and trying to translate the best practices of commercial growers into language and methods for the home gardener and arranging it month-by-month as you need it. Fertilizing and mulching deciduous fruit trees is covered in my book on pages 86 and 87. Basically they are much less hungry eaters than citrus trees. Deciduous fruit trees should be fed lightly and never given too much nitrogen or you will get all leaves and little or no fruit, but they appreciate a deep organic soil as explained above. The time to give nutrients is when the buds are swelling in early spring, but with organics, except for fast-acting ones, you can apply a little earlier since they take time to work. See pages 86 and 87 for suggestions of what to use. Be very careful not to over-fertilize. Unless in extremely poor soil they will be fine, so I think what you did by fertilizing with organics in early spring was fine. I wouldn’t overdo it. Water deeply and infrequently rather than shallowly and often, as apparently you are already doing. Next year feed them in early February so the fertilizer will be working by the time buds are swelling and flowers opening.

Pale or yellow leaves dropping leaves on citrus or stone fruits means that you haven’t given them enough nitrogen. Apply a stronger, faster-acting nitrogen fertilizer such as blood meal or guano and water it in thoroughly. Chicken manure would help too since it contains phosphorus and potassium. Purple spots on leaves could mean lack of potassium or lack of trace elements. Nutrients are sometimes locked up in saline soils. Make sure your trees have all the nutrients they need. Apply John and Bob’s, humic acid, kelp and also to increase drainage in heavy soils products containing Yucca schidigera to increase drainage. Please see the chart on Generic Organic Fertilizers and Soil Amendments under Fertilizers on this website for what to use. Additionally, in this rainy year we have had some diseases proleferated. Curling leaves on peach and nectarines might mean peach leaf curl. See the Q & A on that subject on this website, also see the section on peach leaf curl 384 and 385 in my book and other pages given in index. Use dormant sprays in winter. If disease is a problem now, try controlling with Serenade (trademarked organic product.)

Problem soils can gradually be fixed by adding organics at regular intervals. You don’t need to hire an expert to tell you this, besides an expert might be a guy who learned all about synthetic fertilizers in ag. school and might not be on the organic path. Instead, use your time and money to gradually build up the organic structure of your soil with annual applications of horse manure in fall and your problems will be gone. I know because I’ve seen it work. But make sure your tetanus shot is up to date. Sand and clay together, unless naturally occurring, can lead to something akin to concrete, but even in that case organics can cure the problem. It just takes time. Fertilizer alone won’t do it. The worst soil in the world can be fixed up with organics and the very process of plant roots going down into the ground helps break up soil. For a full lineup of organic materials to use and how to use them see the chart on page 28 of my organic book. Also apply gypsum every two years. See the opening chapter in my book for full explanation on pages 21 and 22. This will help increase drainage. Good luck. It may take you a few years to correct soil problems but persevere. With diligent applications of organic materials, especially manure, and the help of slow natural rot and earthworms who will appear like magic, you will win out in the end. Try to get horse manure from a good horse owner who picks up daily. This will avoid the salts from salt licks. Read the opening chapter of my book beginning page 16, you will learn a lot. There are so many good things like humic acid, seaweed, and alfalfa that you can use. Some of these things can work real miracles. Also encourage beneficials to clean up the bad bugs.

Related posts:

1. When to Feed Apple Trees and When to Thin the Fruit
2. Dwarf grapefruit tree overpruned
3. How to Make a Pomegranate Tree Bear Fruit

Question from Candace and Cyrus:

Answer from Pat:
One of the most pressing current needs of gardeners is a drought- and-wear-resistant ground cover to take the place of a lawn, especially for people who have dogs or children who love to run and play and can wear out many kinds of ground covers. My suggestions are these: First a bermudagrass lawn such as ‘Santa Ana’ or ‘Tifgreen’ is grass but it is very drought-resistant and will stay green along the coast even in winter and will take no more water than gazanias. In a drought it will pull in its horns and go brown but it will not die. It is far better to water it longer once a week than more shallowly and for less long three times a week as some cities now mistakenly legislate.

Secondly I suggest planting creeping white yarrow or woolly yarrow (Achillea tomentosa) as a lawn. Plant seeds in fall and keep the ground damp until they are germinated. It will take a little time to become established but it will eventually make a ferny green mat that is very pleasant to walk on and very durable. The flowers are a bonus and can be taken off after blooms fade with a weed-wacker.

Thirdly I suggest Lippia (Phyla nodiflora). It is a drought-resistant, low groundcover that takes foot traffic, but it does bear pink flowers in June that bring bees. You can mow them off in June with a lawn mower in order that your dog’s paws won’t get bitten. (Bees in the garden don’t bite except when you accidentally step on one or grasp one by mistake. Bees do protect and guard their hives, however, but having a lawn that attracts bees won’t cause bees to make a hive in your garden.)

Related posts:

1. Creeping Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) for Lawn
2. Drought-Resistant Gardening
3. Variegated Carmel creeper (Ceanothus griseus horizontalis ‘Diamond Heights’ as lawn substitute