Comments on: Fruit Trees http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/blog/citrus-fruit-trees/fruit-trees/ Just another Patwelsh.com weblog Mon, 14 May 2012 20:31:40 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.2 By: Pat http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/blog/citrus-fruit-trees/fruit-trees/comment-page-1/#comment-1559 Pat Fri, 16 Dec 2011 04:49:47 +0000 http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/?p=360#comment-1559 P.S. Regarding your persimmon tree, you did not say what variety you have or what type of fruit. 'Fuyu' grows very well in Los Angeles. 'Hachiya' might not have enough winter chill in most parts of Los Angeles. Also, I should have told you that fruit drop on young persimmon trees is a common problem. Besides allowing the tree to go dry, as I have already said, over-fertilizing can lead to fruit drop. Fertilize with an organic balanced fertilizer or you could apply aged chicken manure just once a year in late winter or early spring. P.S. Regarding your persimmon tree, you did not say what variety you have or what type of fruit. ‘Fuyu’ grows very well in Los Angeles. ‘Hachiya’ might not have enough winter chill in most parts of Los Angeles. Also, I should have told you that fruit drop on young persimmon trees is a common problem. Besides allowing the tree to go dry, as I have already said, over-fertilizing can lead to fruit drop. Fertilize with an organic balanced fertilizer or you could apply aged chicken manure just once a year in late winter or early spring.

]]> By: Pat http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/blog/citrus-fruit-trees/fruit-trees/comment-page-1/#comment-1556 Pat Fri, 16 Dec 2011 04:46:24 +0000 http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/?p=360#comment-1556 The Los Angeles basin is Sunset Climate Zone 22. You may have an Asian pear variety that needs more winter chill. It is always better to purchase plants at a good nursery than at a place like Home Depot that may not have the right varieties for your locality. Most varieties of Asian pear will bear well in Zones 14 to 21 and 2 to 12 and most are self-fruitful, that is they will bear fruit but only about one-fourth the amount of fruit without a pollinator, but at least that is some fruit. However, depending on the variety you have, you might get fruit if you have a pollinator. You need to plant another Asian pear to have cross pollination and also you need to be sure there are bees to do the pollination for you. Another problem you might be having is that it sounds as if you fertilized vbery thoroughly and too much. Deciduous fruit trees do not need much fertilizer. If you fertilize them too much they will put a lot of energy into growing a lot of green leaves but not many flowers. The balanced fertilizer is a good idea but not so frequently. The correct way to fertilize deciduous fruit trees here is to fertilize lightly when the blossoms are just about to open in spring. You did not say if the tree bloomed. If it bloomed and you got no fruit this means you had no bees and needed a pollinator besides. You could graft a pollinator onto the tree, but mainly get out there with a paint brush in spring and hand pollinate the flowers as if you were a bee. Regarding your persimmon tree, when fruits drop off when they are one inch in size this most likely means your tree is stressed and I am just guessing it is not getting adequate water. Water deeply once a week. Soak the ground well and make sure the water reaches the roots, then wait a week or even two weeks before watering again. By watering with a drip system you may not be giving your persimmon adequate irrigation. I don't know where in Los Angeles you live but in some areas the soil is decomposed granite. This is wonderful soil but has such good drainage that the water just pours straight down through it and then it dries out. Water your tree deeply and the roots will go down deeply into the ground instead of being on the surface of the soil where they will dry out quickly and stress the tree. The Los Angeles basin is Sunset Climate Zone 22. You may have an Asian pear variety that needs more winter chill. It is always better to purchase plants at a good nursery than at a place like Home Depot that may not have the right varieties for your locality. Most varieties of Asian pear will bear well in Zones 14 to 21 and 2 to 12 and most are self-fruitful, that is they will bear fruit but only about one-fourth the amount of fruit without a pollinator, but at least that is some fruit. However, depending on the variety you have, you might get fruit if you have a pollinator. You need to plant another Asian pear to have cross pollination and also you need to be sure there are bees to do the pollination for you. Another problem you might be having is that it sounds as if you fertilized vbery thoroughly and too much. Deciduous fruit trees do not need much fertilizer. If you fertilize them too much they will put a lot of energy into growing a lot of green leaves but not many flowers. The balanced fertilizer is a good idea but not so frequently. The correct way to fertilize deciduous fruit trees here is to fertilize lightly when the blossoms are just about to open in spring. You did not say if the tree bloomed. If it bloomed and you got no fruit this means you had no bees and needed a pollinator besides. You could graft a pollinator onto the tree, but mainly get out there with a paint brush in spring and hand pollinate the flowers as if you were a bee. Regarding your persimmon tree, when fruits drop off when they are one inch in size this most likely means your tree is stressed and I am just guessing it is not getting adequate water. Water deeply once a week. Soak the ground well and make sure the water reaches the roots, then wait a week or even two weeks before watering again. By watering with a drip system you may not be giving your persimmon adequate irrigation. I don’t know where in Los Angeles you live but in some areas the soil is decomposed granite. This is wonderful soil but has such good drainage that the water just pours straight down through it and then it dries out. Water your tree deeply and the roots will go down deeply into the ground instead of being on the surface of the soil where they will dry out quickly and stress the tree.

]]> By: Peter http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/blog/citrus-fruit-trees/fruit-trees/comment-page-1/#comment-1525 Peter Mon, 05 Dec 2011 04:31:07 +0000 http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/?p=360#comment-1525 I have 5 years asian pear, i bought it from home depot. Had no fruit. I have 5 ys. persimmon tree, when eruits are about one inch, will drop. I gave them 10-10-10 fertilzer& weekly once the water with dripping system. But no fruit.I am living in L.A. . Summer time how often they need water. Thank you Peter I have 5 years asian pear, i bought it from home depot. Had no fruit. I have 5 ys. persimmon tree, when eruits are about one inch, will drop. I gave them 10-10-10 fertilzer& weekly once the water with dripping system. But no fruit.I am living in L.A. . Summer time how often they need water. Thank you Peter

]]> By: Pat http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/blog/citrus-fruit-trees/fruit-trees/comment-page-1/#comment-1319 Pat Mon, 10 Oct 2011 04:46:25 +0000 http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/?p=360#comment-1319 All Asian pears need a pollinator. In order for your tree to bear fruit you need to plant another variety of Asian pear that blooms at the same time. Sunset Western Garden Book usually provides such details, but on this score they say "Consult your nursery." If this is a nursery specializing in Asian pears, you are in luck but actually most nurseries don't have the answer to this question. I hope you know the variety you have. Without that information I can't find out what variety would be a good pollinator for your tree. I would suggest you read the websites of nurseries specializing in Asian pears for the answer to this question. Here is one that might be of help: http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/proceedings1990/v1-304.html Also, don't forget you will need bees to do the pollination. You are wise to prune to keep the tree smaller. Additionally thin the fruit when you have some to one fruit per node. All Asian pears need a pollinator. In order for your tree to bear fruit you need to plant another variety of Asian pear that blooms at the same time. Sunset Western Garden Book usually provides such details, but on this score they say “Consult your nursery.” If this is a nursery specializing in Asian pears, you are in luck but actually most nurseries don’t have the answer to this question. I hope you know the variety you have. Without that information I can’t find out what variety would be a good pollinator for your tree. I would suggest you read the websites of nurseries specializing in Asian pears for the answer to this question. Here is one that might be of help: http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/proceedings1990/v1-304.html Also, don’t forget you will need bees to do the pollination. You are wise to prune to keep the tree smaller. Additionally thin the fruit when you have some to one fruit per node.

]]> By: Paula Manning http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/blog/citrus-fruit-trees/fruit-trees/comment-page-1/#comment-1292 Paula Manning Wed, 28 Sep 2011 15:07:54 +0000 http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/?p=360#comment-1292 Pat, thank you again for the wonderful program presented to our FB Garden Club! A question...we have a large Asian pear tree in the middle of our fruit grove which has produced almost no fruit in the 4 years we have lived here. We planted a second tree nearby last year which produced some fruit. This year we see no frui....until today when we were about to cut the large tree back. This morning I see several small 1/2" fruit! So we decided to keep the tree and look into other causes for the minimal production. What would you suggest to increase fruit? Added note...our grove has 14 valencia and several plums, peaches, pomegranates and persimmons, all which produce well. The nectarine only this year produced some fruit. Pat, thank you again for the wonderful program presented to our FB Garden Club! A question…we have a large Asian pear tree in the middle of our fruit grove which has produced almost no fruit in the 4 years we have lived here. We planted a second tree nearby last year which produced some fruit. This year we see no frui….until today when we were about to cut the large tree back. This morning I see several small 1/2″ fruit! So we decided to keep the tree and look into other causes for the minimal production. What would you suggest to increase fruit? Added note…our grove has 14 valencia and several plums, peaches, pomegranates and persimmons, all which produce well. The nectarine only this year produced some fruit.

]]> By: Pat http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/blog/citrus-fruit-trees/fruit-trees/comment-page-1/#comment-1027 Pat Sun, 03 Jul 2011 03:31:23 +0000 http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/?p=360#comment-1027 This is a P.S. to my earlier answer to your query regarding your avocado tree. When I wrote my other answer I had just returned from vacation and was somewhat tired and rushed. I am now writing to you again to clarify my reply. First, I notice a typo. Mature avocado trees require 2 pounds actual nitrogen per year, not one as I said previously. Secondly, the small fruit probably fell off because of digging under the tree. The size of the small fruit however was most likely caused by another factor. These small seedless fruits are called "cukes". When they occur on commercial trees they are usually thrown out but they are edible. Small seedless avocados called "cukes" are caused by climatic factors, such as swings in temperature. Also a total lack of bees or failure to be pollinated might be the problem. You probably do not know what variety of tree you have but Hass avocado's often produce many "cukes" along with good fruit. Try using a long bamboo pole with a hook taped on it to get the good fruit from the top of the tree. Then try to identify the variety of the tree by comparing the fruit with avocados at your local weekly Farmers Market. (The one in Hollywood is a good bet, but very busy so maybe farmers don't have time to chat.) In our area growers who bring their own fruit to local markets are often willing to share expertise and advice, but talk to more than one since one guy might be more knowledgeable than another. A three legged orchard ladder can also be a help in reaching high fruit. The "cukes" your tree bore this year were most likely caused by wide swings in temperatures or wet weather. Mulch the ground under the tree, feed next year with a balanced organic fertilizer providing 2 pounds actual nitrogen to your tree, never again dig under the tree. If after giving the tree this care and if the tree again fails to bear good fruit next year it is time then to look for a grafting specialist. When and if that happens I suggest going to a meeting of the Rare Fruit Growers in your area for help and advice on grafting. (Please see my answer to another reader of this blog regarding pollination of avocado trees.) If you think you have a Hass tree, then you can graft a "B" variety into the tree to provide pollination but possibly the weather will be less erratic next year and you might get a good crop. Additionally, some varieties bear better in alternate years. This is a P.S. to my earlier answer to your query regarding your avocado tree. When I wrote my other answer I had just returned from vacation and was somewhat tired and rushed. I am now writing to you again to clarify my reply. First, I notice a typo. Mature avocado trees require 2 pounds actual nitrogen per year, not one as I said previously. Secondly, the small fruit probably fell off because of digging under the tree. The size of the small fruit however was most likely caused by another factor. These small seedless fruits are called “cukes”. When they occur on commercial trees they are usually thrown out but they are edible. Small seedless avocados called “cukes” are caused by climatic factors, such as swings in temperature. Also a total lack of bees or failure to be pollinated might be the problem.

You probably do not know what variety of tree you have but Hass avocado’s often produce many “cukes” along with good fruit. Try using a long bamboo pole with a hook taped on it to get the good fruit from the top of the tree. Then try to identify the variety of the tree by comparing the fruit with avocados at your local weekly Farmers Market. (The one in Hollywood is a good bet, but very busy so maybe farmers don’t have time to chat.) In our area growers who bring their own fruit to local markets are often willing to share expertise and advice, but talk to more than one since one guy might be more knowledgeable than another. A three legged orchard ladder can also be a help in reaching high fruit.

The “cukes” your tree bore this year were most likely caused by wide swings in temperatures or wet weather. Mulch the ground under the tree, feed next year with a balanced organic fertilizer providing 2 pounds actual nitrogen to your tree, never again dig under the tree. If after giving the tree this care and if the tree again fails to bear good fruit next year it is time then to look for a grafting specialist. When and if that happens I suggest going to a meeting of the Rare Fruit Growers in your area for help and advice on grafting. (Please see my answer to another reader of this blog regarding pollination of avocado trees.) If you think you have a Hass tree, then you can graft a “B” variety into the tree to provide pollination but possibly the weather will be less erratic next year and you might get a good crop. Additionally, some varieties bear better in alternate years.

]]> By: Pat http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/blog/citrus-fruit-trees/fruit-trees/comment-page-1/#comment-1024 Pat Fri, 01 Jul 2011 05:09:15 +0000 http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/?p=360#comment-1024 I am sorry to tell you this but avocado trees usually do not need pruning except to snap off any dead wood inside the tree and maybe to reduce the height of the tree if necessary to reach the fruit. The bark of avocado trees is easily sunburned so care should be taken not to create gaps or lessen the shade provided by foliage. Avocado growers seldom if ever prune avocado trees and doing so can ruin crops. You may have cut off all the fruiting wood by pruning. If any pruning is necessary best time to do it is after, not before harvest. Also, digging or cultivating under an avocado will always make all the fruit fall off. The roots of avocado are right on top of the soil and if you ever rake or cultivate under an avocado all the fruit will fall off. It is never necessary to dig a trench to feed any tree, but this is particularly true of avocado trees. The roots of the tree are right on top of the ground all over under the canopy of the leaves. Just sprinkle balanced organic fertilizer recommended for avocado's all over the top of the ground under the tree from a foot away from the trunk to the tips of the branches then water it thoroughly into the ground. Do this job in February. Why not try to feed the avocado properly next year? Give each mature tree at least one pound of actual nitrogen in February. Fertilize with organics, mulch the tree. Let all leaves lie under the tree. Give the roots time to heal and give the tree time to grow back and maybe the tree will bloom, bear fruit and do well after all. Read the instructions for feeding avocado's on pages 81 to 83 of my organic book. Grafting an avocado is not easy and requires an expert. Anyway I doubt your tree needs grafting. If you wish to follow this course consult the Rare Fruit Growers for someone who can help you. I am sorry to tell you this but avocado trees usually do not need pruning except to snap off any dead wood inside the tree and maybe to reduce the height of the tree if necessary to reach the fruit. The bark of avocado trees is easily sunburned so care should be taken not to create gaps or lessen the shade provided by foliage. Avocado growers seldom if ever prune avocado trees and doing so can ruin crops. You may have cut off all the fruiting wood by pruning. If any pruning is necessary best time to do it is after, not before harvest.

Also, digging or cultivating under an avocado will always make all the fruit fall off. The roots of avocado are right on top of the soil and if you ever rake or cultivate under an avocado all the fruit will fall off. It is never necessary to dig a trench to feed any tree, but this is particularly true of avocado trees. The roots of the tree are right on top of the ground all over under the canopy of the leaves. Just sprinkle balanced organic fertilizer recommended for avocado’s all over the top of the ground under the tree from a foot away from the trunk to the tips of the branches then water it thoroughly into the ground. Do this job in February.

Why not try to feed the avocado properly next year? Give each mature tree at least one pound of actual nitrogen in February. Fertilize with organics, mulch the tree. Let all leaves lie under the tree. Give the roots time to heal and give the tree time to grow back and maybe the tree will bloom, bear fruit and do well after all. Read the instructions for feeding avocado’s on pages 81 to 83 of my organic book.

Grafting an avocado is not easy and requires an expert. Anyway I doubt your tree needs grafting. If you wish to follow this course consult the Rare Fruit Growers for someone who can help you.

]]> By: Karen http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/blog/citrus-fruit-trees/fruit-trees/comment-page-1/#comment-1003 Karen Mon, 27 Jun 2011 23:02:47 +0000 http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/?p=360#comment-1003 Hi, I purchased a house two years ago (in Los Angeles) with a very large avocado tree in the back. It was in need of pruning, which I had done. Last year it bore very tiny avocados which died once they reached the size of a cherry. This past December, I had my gardener dig a trench around the base which he then filled with fertilizer I purchased from Home Depot. The leaves were plentiful and green. The tree flowered well, yet I've seen two full size avocados at the top (unreachable) and a few almond size avocados at eye level. What can I do to get my tree to bear fruit? Thanks! Karen Hi, I purchased a house two years ago (in Los Angeles) with a very large avocado tree in the back. It was in need of pruning, which I had done. Last year it bore very tiny avocados which died once they reached the size of a cherry. This past December, I had my gardener dig a trench around the base which he then filled with fertilizer I purchased from Home Depot. The leaves were plentiful and green. The tree flowered well, yet I’ve seen two full size avocados at the top (unreachable) and a few almond size avocados at eye level. What can I do to get my tree to bear fruit? Thanks!
Karen

]]> By: Pat http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/blog/citrus-fruit-trees/fruit-trees/comment-page-1/#comment-819 Pat Tue, 05 Apr 2011 21:52:15 +0000 http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/?p=360#comment-819 One cannot know for sure why your apricot tree failed to bear fruit but I can make an educated guess. Since all your other trees are bearing and this one is not my immediate thought is pollination. I bet the nursery sold you a tree supposed to be low-chill but difficult to pollinate, like for example 'King'. If I were you I would give apricots another try. I like 'Blenheim' best. Harvests are usually heavy every other year on 'Blenheim' and lighter on alternative years, but the flavor is divine if you let the fruit ripen on the tree. It likes some winter chill but unless your site is totally frost-free and warm year round, you should have success in La Mesa. Apricot needs to be pruned properly in winter. Check my book for a few basic guidelines. For plum, 'Santa Rosa' gets my vote hands down. As I've said before I wouldn't bother growing a peach tree but instead would plant a nectarine. 'Panamint' is my choice and to this day in my opinion is one of the best trees for home-grown fruit that anyone can plant in Southern California. One cannot know for sure why your apricot tree failed to bear fruit but I can make an educated guess. Since all your other trees are bearing and this one is not my immediate thought is pollination. I bet the nursery sold you a tree supposed to be low-chill but difficult to pollinate, like for example ‘King’. If I were you I would give apricots another try. I like ‘Blenheim’ best. Harvests are usually heavy every other year on ‘Blenheim’ and lighter on alternative years, but the flavor is divine if you let the fruit ripen on the tree. It likes some winter chill but unless your site is totally frost-free and warm year round, you should have success in La Mesa. Apricot needs to be pruned properly in winter. Check my book for a few basic guidelines.

For plum, ‘Santa Rosa’ gets my vote hands down. As I’ve said before I wouldn’t bother growing a peach tree but instead would plant a nectarine. ‘Panamint’ is my choice and to this day in my opinion is one of the best trees for home-grown fruit that anyone can plant in Southern California.

]]> By: Jean Sweetwood http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/blog/citrus-fruit-trees/fruit-trees/comment-page-1/#comment-815 Jean Sweetwood Mon, 04 Apr 2011 18:02:19 +0000 http://patwelsh.com/wpmu/?p=360#comment-815 I just removed an apricot tree that after ten years has not once produced fruit while all the other trees on the South side of my La Mesa home are thriving. It was sold to me as low chill fruit tree. Could you recommend a plum, peach, or an apricot that would do well. I enjoy your book. Must secure new one Thank you. Jean I just removed an apricot tree that after ten years has not once produced fruit while all the other trees on the South side of my La Mesa home are thriving.
It was sold to me as low chill fruit tree.
Could you recommend a plum, peach, or
an apricot that would do well.

I enjoy your book. Must secure new one
Thank you.
Jean

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