My question is about Agonis flexuosa. I’ve planted three of the ‘After Dark’ dark foliaged trees in full sun (Sunset 23) from 3 gallon containers. They are now about 12′ tall.

They’re becoming beautiful small trees, but so far are slim and lanky. Do they require any corrective pruning in their youth? Can I tip back for greater bushiness? So far I’ve done nothing to them but let them grow. Thank you!

Answer from Pat:
I have seen Agonis flexuosa ‘Jervis Bay After Dark’ in nursery cans and display gardens at the county fair and elsewhere. Monrovia Nursery website has a very pretty photo of one growing in a raised bed with wide foliage and looks like a skinny trunk. I have seen other photos that make it look like more of a shrub than a tree. Monrovia says you have to water deeply and often the first year to develop a large root system. After that it’s drought resistant. They also say it’s slow growing to 15 or 25 feet and 10 to 15 feet wide. I have yet to see a full grown one and I have wondered if it is mainly a screen plant or novelty item. But my guess is that only time will tell how well this tree grows in California long term. Meanwhile I would leave the lower branches on as long as possible to encourage the trunk to grow strong. Also don’t stake too tightly. Let it sway in the wind to grow a strong trunk. Also, yes I would pinch back the sides, especially the lower branches take off a foot at least to encourage strength and branching, and do not cut back the top leader or you will dwarf it and make it grow wide instead of tall. Follow the usual guidelines for developing a good branch structure in trees.

Related posts:

1. How Far to Plant Peppermint willow (Agonis) and Australian willow (Geijera parvifolia) from walls and paving
2. Colorful Very Low Shrubs And Trees For Banks
3. Newly Purchased Lime Tree

Question from Tom:

I am comfortable with pruning and watering the trees. What nutrients my trees need is a mystery to me. I am not sure how much fertilizer to use and I am confused by all of the micro nutrients such as iron. Currently I have been using a Kellogg organic fruit tree fertilizer in late spring on the stone fruit. I use Vigoro citrus fertilizer every 2-3 months on the citrus. I sprinkle a few small handfuls under the drip line and water during application.

My citrus leaves have a tendency to eventually become yellow and or pale. Some of my stone fruit leaves have purplish red spots and leaf edges (not curl). My bareroot cherry trees have some yellowing leaves that have been randomly dropping like they would in the fall when going dormant.

My soil is about 70% sand and 30% clay with varying amounts of organic material depending on the area of my yard. By itself my soil has a tendency to dry out in the summer and become as hard as cement. I have placed about 2-3 inches of mulch to keep the soil moist. The soil pH ranges from 6.5 to 7.0. I am concerned that my soil may be part of the problem.

Does it sound like I am fertilizing enough? I am considering hiring a consultant to analyze my situation. Do you have any recommendations?

Answer from Pat:
Fertilizing citrus trees is a big topic handled in depth on pages 63, 64, and 65 of my new organic book and in all my previous month-by-month books. There are several ways to go and choices to be made according to the needs and likes and dislikes of the gardener. Basically, citrus are big feeders and need up to 1 pound of pure nitrogen per year for a mature tree and proportionally less for smaller trees. They also need phosphorus, potassium, and trace elements in lesser amounts. Since I have covered this topic in such detail and length in my new organic book, and because without copying those three pages here I cannot provide all the details I must suggest you refer to this book, either your own copy or go to the library and read it there. Suffice it to say that most home gardeners starve their citrus trees, but also that there is no way or need for an organic gardener to exactly translate one pound of actual nitrogen and other requirements into products you buy on a shelf, though technically that would be one way to go. The real task for the organic gardener is to build up the organic content of the soil which in turn creates the microbial action to create and release natural nitrogen. Many suggestions for what to use are given on page 63 and 64 including the fact that many organic gardeners simply mulch their trees with a layer of horse manure under the canopy and drip line and beyond with horse manure and let the rains wash it in. (Don’t pile manure or mulch against the trunk.) Beginning this late, you have lost the chance to fertilize prior to February bloom. Organic fertilizers take time to work. Nonetheless, mulch the trees and fertilize now with the organic products you have, using more than suggested (of organic fertilizers, only, not of synthetic fertilizers), water in deeply, and continue to feed through the warm seasons of the year.

Regarding deciduous fruits, the jury is still out on feeding these and this is why so little information is out there for gardeners to access. For many years I have been investigating the results of agricultural experiments and trying to translate the best practices of commercial growers into language and methods for the home gardener and arranging it month-by-month as you need it. Fertilizing and mulching deciduous fruit trees is covered in my book on pages 86 and 87. Basically they are much less hungry eaters than citrus trees. Deciduous fruit trees should be fed lightly and never given too much nitrogen or you will get all leaves and little or no fruit, but they appreciate a deep organic soil as explained above. The time to give nutrients is when the buds are swelling in early spring, but with organics, except for fast-acting ones, you can apply a little earlier since they take time to work. See pages 86 and 87 for suggestions of what to use. Be very careful not to over-fertilize. Unless in extremely poor soil they will be fine, so I think what you did by fertilizing with organics in early spring was fine. I wouldn’t overdo it. Water deeply and infrequently rather than shallowly and often, as apparently you are already doing. Next year feed them in early February so the fertilizer will be working by the time buds are swelling and flowers opening.

Pale or yellow leaves dropping leaves on citrus or stone fruits means that you haven’t given them enough nitrogen. Apply a stronger, faster-acting nitrogen fertilizer such as blood meal or guano and water it in thoroughly. Chicken manure would help too since it contains phosphorus and potassium. Purple spots on leaves could mean lack of potassium or lack of trace elements. Nutrients are sometimes locked up in saline soils. Make sure your trees have all the nutrients they need. Apply John and Bob’s, humic acid, kelp and also to increase drainage in heavy soils products containing Yucca schidigera to increase drainage. Please see the chart on Generic Organic Fertilizers and Soil Amendments under Fertilizers on this website for what to use. Additionally, in this rainy year we have had some diseases proleferated. Curling leaves on peach and nectarines might mean peach leaf curl. See the Q & A on that subject on this website, also see the section on peach leaf curl 384 and 385 in my book and other pages given in index. Use dormant sprays in winter. If disease is a problem now, try controlling with Serenade (trademarked organic product.)

Problem soils can gradually be fixed by adding organics at regular intervals. You don’t need to hire an expert to tell you this, besides an expert might be a guy who learned all about synthetic fertilizers in ag. school and might not be on the organic path. Instead, use your time and money to gradually build up the organic structure of your soil with annual applications of horse manure in fall and your problems will be gone. I know because I’ve seen it work. But make sure your tetanus shot is up to date. Sand and clay together, unless naturally occurring, can lead to something akin to concrete, but even in that case organics can cure the problem. It just takes time. Fertilizer alone won’t do it. The worst soil in the world can be fixed up with organics and the very process of plant roots going down into the ground helps break up soil. For a full lineup of organic materials to use and how to use them see the chart on page 28 of my organic book. Also apply gypsum every two years. See the opening chapter in my book for full explanation on pages 21 and 22. This will help increase drainage. Good luck. It may take you a few years to correct soil problems but persevere. With diligent applications of organic materials, especially manure, and the help of slow natural rot and earthworms who will appear like magic, you will win out in the end. Try to get horse manure from a good horse owner who picks up daily. This will avoid the salts from salt licks. Read the opening chapter of my book beginning page 16, you will learn a lot. There are so many good things like humic acid, seaweed, and alfalfa that you can use. Some of these things can work real miracles. Also encourage beneficials to clean up the bad bugs.

Related posts:

1. When to Feed Apple Trees and When to Thin the Fruit
2. Dwarf grapefruit tree overpruned
3. How to Make a Pomegranate Tree Bear Fruit

Answer from Pat:
Pomegranates will grow and bear fruit in Sunset Zone 24 where you probably live but they need full sun. If you live in an east-west canyon your tree is perhaps not getting enough sun to bear flowers. Another possibility is that you did not get a fruiting variety and another is that you planted it in a lawn. There are several fine varieties of pomegranate. ‘Wonderful’ is the best known, but also make sure that you didn’t purchase an ornamental tree or bush grown only for its flowers. If you have a proper fruiting variety but it has not born fruit there are several possible reasons.

First, the pomegranate might be getting too much nitrogen and not enough bloom ingredients.This can happen if it’s growing in a lawn. Secondly, pomegranates are native to hot dry climates and will grow and even thrive with little attention even in alkaline soil but they need a hot spot. Some varieties will get mildew near the coast and if in too much shade. Sometimes people live in a canyon and don’t even notice that their garden may be in shade all winter long or at least for most of the day. When the sun is far south as in winter the sun may be hidden behind the canyon wall to the south of your garden, plus other houses and trees higher on the hill may be casting a shadow on your garden. In summer the shadows may come from trees or houses or fences to the east, west, and north. So pay attention to where the shadows are in your garden when planning where to put a pomegranate. Full sun means six hours of sun a day.

Despite this problem we might be able to find a way to make your pomegranate bloom. First, in January or early February as the tree begins to put out a few new leaves, go all over the tree and prune off the tips. If it has not grown much, just clip off the outer four to six inches or less. Go all over the tree and cut a few inches off each branch to make it put out new wood. But if the tree is vigorous already, then cut back a foot or two all over to make it branch and be bushier. This is because pomegranates only bear on new wood. One really should prune a pomegranate for the first three years of its life to get it to branch and put out new growth. I doubt you have done than in the past, but now by pruning in late winter (late January or early February) just as the plant begins to grow and put out new tip growth you can correct the problem and make it put out new wood. You want it to be bushy.

Secondly, immediately after pruning, feed it with an organic fertilizer high in bloom ingredients and little nitrogen. This means the first number (nitrogen) should be low and the second number (phosphorus) and third number (potassium) should be very high, 2-10-10 is an example. After fertilizing water the fertilizer inot the ground. If your tree is growing well already showing that it is getting plenty of nitrogen, then just fertilize with two cups of bonemeal and half a cup of Sul-Po-Mag at this time of year. Sprinkle these over the roots and use a cultivator to gently till into the soil under the tree so you don’t harm roots, then cover with mulch or compost. After fertilizing and mulching water the fertilizer into the ground. Feed the tree in January with this high bloom formula. In February fertilize again with an organic fertilizer for citrus and avocado, such as 4-6-6. If you can, push the mulch aside, put the fertilizer under the mulch all around the drip line of the tree (under branch tips) and then replace the mulch and water unless rains are adequate. Another option for fertilizing is to get a bag of seabird guano and feed with this. This will take care of all the needs of the plant. Follow package directions and water it into the ground. (When fertilizer is placed on top of mulch you need to use more of it since some will be absorbed by the mulch.)

Thirdly, you didn’t state whether the tree blooms. If the tree bloomed but bore no fruit, there probably were no bees in your garden when it bloomed. If there are no native or domestic bees or other insects the flowers won’t be pollinated and won’t become fruits. So when your the tree blooms in spring, take a sable paint brush and pollinate all the flowers. Just play like a bee and go from flower to flower spreading the pollen from one to another. Sometimes people use a feather duster for this job but a paintbrush is better. You don’t need a second pomegranate tree. Pomegranates are self-fruitful but the blossoms must be pollinated for it to bear fruit. Since the tree belongs to your daughter it will work best to have her do this job so she gets the tree to bloom. If she is part of all these processes: Pruning to stimulate tip growth, fertilizing for high bloom, and pollinating and if all these steps result in fruit, your daughter will have a genuine feeling of accomplishment from the experience. If none of this works the tree must be in too much shade, but I hope it works!

Related posts:

1. Pomegranate Trees
2. How the Weather Can Make a Barren Peach Tree Bear Fruit
3. Fruit Drop from Avocado Tree

I live in zone 10, Long Beach, CA.  I have a sunny backyard that has 2 citrus trees: a lemon tree that became wonderfully productive once I did a major pruning a few years ago, and a Valencia orange that produces sweet fruit with surprisingly few seeds.  We pull fruit from both trees all the time.  We have room for 1 or 2 more trees, and would love a lime tree.  Do you recommend any particular variety?  And do lime trees have to be planted at any particular time?

Also, are there any other fruit trees that should do well where we live?  I’m hoping you are going to tell me that there is some magical new peach tree variety that thrives in zone 10!

Answer from Pat:
Glad to know that my book is helping. What a delight to have two good citrus trees. I strongly recommend Bearss Lime as the best lime tree for home gardens in California and Hawaii. It needs a frost free zone. Leave fruit on the tree until very ripe and they will be loaded with juice. You might be able to find one on a dwarfing root stock. If not a dwarf it’s quite a large tree eventually to 20 feet tall, and with much foliage in summer. In winter it drops many leaves.

Regarding peaches, why not consider peach and nectarine both? I don’t recommend either one unless people know their requirements and are committed to prune harder in winter than for other deciduous fruit trees and to treat with dormant spray at least twice in winter against peach leaf curl disease and other diseases and pests. Prune while the tree is dormant after leaves fall and then spray more than once in winter. Even organic gardeners should use dormant sprays on peach trees after leaves fall.

Now for peach varieties. Actually, there are several good, low chill varieties available for where you live—probably Zone 24 (the Sunset climate zone closest to the ocean). You mention Zone 10, but that is a USDA zone and it covers a huge area, even some parts of Zone 10 are in the desert which is pretty silly when one considers you can’t grow a fuchsia in the desert and you can’t grow tomatoes there, either, in the summer since the heat makes blossoms fall off. The Sunset Zones cover smaller areas and work much better in the West. If you are not familiar with Sunset Western Garden Book, you might consider purchasing a copy. The opening pages explain the zones including Zone 24 or possibly 23 where you live. Zone 24 is in the fog bank along the beach. Zone 23 is a bit back from that. Sunset Western Garden Book and my book are all one needs to garden here successfully. Peach and nectarine varieties are listed on pages 517 to 520 of the Sunset book. A discussion of peaches in general is on page 516.

Two of the best low-chill peach varieties are ‘Floridaprince’ and ‘Midpride’. I would like to warn you against buying ‘Bonita’. This is the low-chill variety that is most often available in nurseries since it was the first low-chill varieties developed. In my opinion it’s not worth growing, so please steel yourself and don’t let anybody talk you into buying it!

Among nectarines, I suggest ‘Panamint’ nectarine. Everyone to whom I have recommended that tree loves it. The fruit has bright red skin and yellow flesh. It is one of the best home-grown fruits I know of and fairly easy to grow. Another good nectarine for home gardens close to the coast is ‘Arctic Star’, which has white flesh. In bare root season go looking at a fine nursery for these specific varieties. Don’t take second best! Nurseries will often try to talk you into what they have on hand. Panamint nectarine is easy to find, however, and it’s a real winner! Very productive too. Don’t forget to fertilize when blossoms swell in spring, and also thin the fruit. See my other posts on this blog on the subject of peach trees and deciduous fruit trees.

Apricot trees along the coast are iffy most years. (This year, 2010 was unusual and the ‘Blenheim’ apricot tree across the street from me bore massively this year due to cold nights.) In normal conditions, however, ‘Autumn Royal’ apricot variety is the only apricot tree that will reliably bear fruit every year in Zone 24. Be sure to wait until fall to pick the fruit. (This apricot bears fruit in fall not in spring.) Prune apricots lightly in winter, and follow up with dormant spray several times in winter.  Fertilize lightly when blossoms swell.

When knowledgeable folks go out to look for the right things to grow they often find it’s difficult. I suggest internet searches—all the fruit varieties I’ve mentioned can be found on the internet. And good local nurseries are willing to order the best varieties for folks that demand the correct plants. Stick to your guns and don’t get second best.

Related posts:

1. Preventing Sap From Oozing from Peach and Nectarine Fruit
2. How the Weather Can Make a Barren Peach Tree Bear Fruit
3. Fruit Trees in Southern California

The only wood products that can be used safely as soil amendment, in other words dug into the ground, are products that have been fully nitrolized (i.e.: enough nitrogen has been added to them so they can rot) or, alternatively, they have been fully composted, which means largely rotted. So the answer to your question is that your trees will be fine with raw chipped eucalyptus wood and leafy products on top of the ground as mulch where they will slowly decompose and add goodness to the soil. Meanwhile, this eucalyptus mulch will greatly reduce the growth of weeds and help to hold moisture in the ground. (See page 29 In my new organic book for the exact amounts of nitrogen to add to raw shavings to make them safe.) No addiltional nitrogen needs to be added when using the chips only as mulch.

Related posts:

1. Problems with Unrotted Wood Products in Soil
2. Vegetables in Raised Beds: Problems with Yellow Leaves
3. Vegetables, Eucalyptus, Clay Soil, and Fruit Trees

Question from Tim:

Answer from Pat:
When trees drop flowers there are several possible reasons. One is wild and sudden temperature swings. Several hot days followed by a cold snap, for example. Worse yet a frost—a night with freezing temperatures— is the most likely culprit. Another cause is insufficient nutrition in the soil. (I recommend fertilizing deciduous fruit trees just as the buds of blossoms swell. They should be fed lightly, never heavily.) Yet another reason fruit trees may drop their blossoms is because the soil is unevenly moist. Never let fruit trees dry out when they are blossoming or they will drop their blossoms. On the other hand never over-water them at that time or the same thing can happen. Just be sure to maintain good moisture in the soil at blossom time.

Finally, there is another possible problem and this could be something attacking the roots. Gophers have been a problem this year in many areas. When something attacks the roots of a plant, the first thing it drops is its flowers or its immature fruits. I don’t think that is the problem you are having since the whole tree and all the trees were affected. But just to explain further, digging up the ground or any disturbance to the soil under the tree can cause young fruit or flowers to fall off.

But also you ask about sap oozing all along the branches. It’s called gummosis. Fruit trees do this a lot and apricots are prone to it. Usually it’s nothing to worry about, but when there is a great deal of oozing sap this can come from a sudden freeze or unseasonably cold temperatures. So it seems to me most likely this is what caused your blossoms to fall off. There is nothing you can do about it but next year listen to weather reports and protect the trees on cold nights.

Related posts:

1. Lime, Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot Trees for Mild Climates
2. June Drop on Peach Trees and Proper Thinning of Fruit
3. Few Fruits On Fruit Trees

Question from Margo:

Answer from Pat:
Small trees that will grow in a small raised bed or very large tub and are non-drippy are few and far between. Also you do not inform me of where you live, or what climate zone you live in. If you live in Southern California or in the Bay Area (San Francisco and environs) my top suggestion for a small clean patio tree is Rhaphiolepis ‘Magestic Beauty’. This is a trouble-free tree that is subject to virtually no pests or disease. It’s thought to be a cross between Raphiolepis indica and Eriobotrya, but I think it is just a chance seedling of rhaphiolepis, since I had something similar come up in my own garden from a seed. Leaves and flowers are bigger than the other selections and growth habit is taller and more treelike. It grows well anywhere in the largely populated areas of California from San Francisco on down. It is a clean non-drippy tree, good on streets and good in patios. Shear after bloom once a year to keep in shape. Never prune in autumn or winter or there will be no spring flowers!

Fill the raised bed with good quality top soil (Not potting mix!) and add organic fertilizer also measuring the correct amount. But plant the tree in the pot in potting soil (not top soil!) the best quality you can find. Add some organic fertilizer at planting time that is appropriate for trees. Ask your local nursery to order the tree from Monrovia Nurseries or go to a tree farm to get it. They have specimens with various trunk heights. I would be careful to get one with the tallest trunk available. The small ones take a long time to grow taller, if ever. Ask for one with a good pink color but if you think the pink is a bit washed out looking in spring, don’t worry. The color will deepen as the tree ages, which is good. (The deeper pink color of the flowers is preferable.)

The main trick with pruning rhaphiolepis is to follow this rule: “Prune after bloom, never before bloom!” After spring bloom is done, shear off the top of the plant in June every year in the shape of an umbrella, removing all fruits that form after flowers fade and some foliage. Above is a photograph I took of a mature one in bloom that is pruned correctly in June every year. It is about 25 years old. Best in full sun but can survive in half-shade inland.

It is far better to have two of the same thing than two different plants, but if you want another choice I suggest Agnes Galt pink Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis ‘Agnes Galt’) grown on a trunk as a tree, but this may be difficult to find. Another variety that can be grown on a trunk is ‘Angel Wing’. It has big white flowers. These two will survive many years as trees in containers or small raised beds or streetside and also and are clean trees. Prune as my book suggests for hibiscus starting in March. Keep head in umbrella shape. Fertilize through summer. Cover soil mix with dry bagged earthworm castings against giant white flies if they ever attack this tree, but beneficial insects released by the Department of Agriculture are controlling the giant white flies pretty well. Grow in full sun.

Related posts:

1. Patio Trees
2. Small, Drought-Tolerant, Evergreen, Flowering Trees for a Parkway
3. Evergreen Trees for Median

Answer from Pat:
I can understand your dismay over seeing an olive tree stripped of eighty percent of its foliage. In most cases no tree should have more than 20% foliage removed at any one time. Nonetheless, in this case of olive trees, they will probably be fine. Olive trees are extremely resilient and they are able to withstand heavy pruning with no damage whatsoever to their health. In fact, these trees are customarily heavily pruned. The reason people prune hard in fall is to take off a lot of fruiting wood so it doesn’t make a mess, especially on pavement. Also a heavily pruned olive will develop a good shape quicker than one that is never pruned.

Olive trees live for hundreds of years in hot, dry climates where farmers sometimes cut off almost all their foliage. It is said that olive trees should be thinned out enough so that a bird should be able to fly right through the foliage and out the other side. This lets light into all parts of the tree. Italian farmers say that sun must fall on each olive every day in order for olives to be any good. Olives are also easier to pick if the foliage is not too thick. I think the trees you are worrying about will be fine and may look better eventually as a result of pruning. You shouldn’t worry too much. Olive trees do best in deep fertile soils but they can live fine in thin alkaline ones too. If you were to give the trees more water or fertilizer than usual this would be likely to harm them more than leaving them alone.

If you want you can (when no one is looking) go give each of the trees a hug and tell each one that you love it. It wouldn’t hurt the trees and it would make you feel good too. (I have hugged a bunch of trees in my life.) Or just go sit nearby and send good thoughts to them. I know this is unscientific, but it does no harm to the environment or anything else.

Related posts:

1. Destructive Olive Tree
2. Sick Olive Tree
3. Olive Trees VS Sidewalk

Question from Robin:

Answer from Pat:
In mild Mediterranean climates most espaliered apple varieties are low-chill types, such as ‘Anna’. Now during the last few days of December, or in early January is the time to clip—don’t pull—off the remaining leaves still clinging to the tree. Unfortunately when one lives near the coast they often fail to fall off naturally. Removing them now in winter helps to prevent the build-up of pests and disease and also stimulates the tree to put out new fresh, green growth necessary later to shade your fruit.

Also, do your dormant pruning now, including shortening some spurs if they have grown too long. Be sure to leave enough spur wood on the tree that you will have an adequate crop. By shortening some spurs I mean those than have grown several inches or even a foot long and are threatening the shape of your espalier. (I also shorten these in August if they have gotten out of hand and taken off skyward, like buggy whips.) This is a problem one can run into with espaliered trees.

Immediately after pruning preferably on the same day apply dormant spray going over every inch of the tree bark up close with your hand sprayer. Applying dormant spray is a much easier job with an espaliered fruit tree than with a standard tree. Dormant spray helps keep diseases and pests at bay.

Once you have pruned your low-chill apple variety, it is quite likely that it will immediately begin putting out fresh green growth and flowers, often at the same time. So by doing your winter pruning now you will stimulate the tree to put out the leaves, flowers, and tiny fruits you are used to seeing at this time of year. The fact they are not there this year is good since this gives you a chance to do your dormant spraying while the tree is bare.

Related posts:

1. Dormant Spray For Low-Chill Apple Trees
2. When to Feed Apple Trees and When to Thin the Fruit
3. Dorsett Apple tree

Question from Christian:

Answer from Pat:
Thank you so much for your excellent questions. Here are my answers divided into categories.

• Vegetable Gardening and Edibles in a New Garden
• Chipped Eucalyptus Wood and Leaves from Tree Trimmers
• Sun and Shade in a New Garden
• Dealing with Clay Soil
• Fruit Trees

With best wishes for great organic gardening success,
Pat

Related posts:

1. Fertilizing Deciduous Fruit Trees
2. Chipped Eucalyptus Wood and Leaves from Tree Trimmers
3. Dealing with Clay Soil