Native plants like best to be planted in plain, native, un-amended soil. Amended soil where garden plants have grown is not the best environment for native plants because native plants are sensitive to fungi and other pathogens that have been brought in with exotic plants. Best scenario is to plant natives straight into bared bulldozed ground with all prior plant material removed.

• Make sure plants were well watered prior to planting. (If they are dry water them in the can again.)
• Clean any existing mulch off the ground, making a large bare space surrounding the hole that has no mulch. (Mulch must not touch roots or get mixed into native soil.)
• Dig the hole to the same depth as the depth of the plant from soil level to bottom of root ball.
• Place the soil you remove from the hole onto clean ground. Or you can put it onto a tarp.
• Fill the hole with water and let it drain out.
• Fill the hole a second time with water and let it drain out once again. (In very dry soil it’s wise to do this 3 times before planting.)
• Carefully remove plant from can supporting root ball with your hands so roots do not break. (Native plants have notoriously fragile roots. Plants are often killed by careless handling at planting time.)
• Sometimes roots are wound around in can. If so, gently loosen them but take care while you are doing this that roots don’t break off from the crown of the plant because of the weight of the root ball.
• Place the plant into the hole with the top of the plant on the same level as surrounding ground. Check the soil level. Fill in with native soil removed from the planting hole and press down with hands, never with feet.
• Use the extra soil taken from the hole to form a watering basin on the edge of the rootball. A week later move water basin out further.
• Replace mulch on top of the ground.
• Water the plant thoroughly.
• Water again the next day.
• Water 3 times a week the first week.
• Water once a week thereafter.
• In summer spritz tops of foliage in early morning or evening to mimic the effect of a brief monsoon rain that washes off dust but doesn’t really get soil wet. These plants can absorb moisture through their leaves. For many natives, watering the ground surrounding their roots in warm weather is likely cause root rot rot and kill the plants.

Related posts:

1. Native Plants of the Southern California Coast
2. Native Plants Suitable For Planting Near A Coastal Lagoon
3. Planting a Clump of Three Birch Trees. European white birch (Betula pendula)

Question from Dave:

Answer from Pat:
In my opinion the plant that looks best next to Mexican sage (Salvia leucantha) is Copper Canyon daisy (Tagetes lemonii), but it is neither red nor white, it is bright yellow. The great thing is that it blooms at exactly the same time as Mexican sage, spring and fall, requires about the same amount of water and is equal in size. (Cut it back hard after bloom in spring and then it covers itself with small golden yellow flowers again in fall, cut back more lightly in fall.) These two plants are a simply stunning combination since the purple of the sage sings next to the golden yellow of the tagetes. (Cut back Mexican sage lightly in fall after bloom and then cut old spent stems to the ground in late February when new basal foliage is 8 or 10 inches tall.)

Another plant that looks good with Mexican sage is Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’. (Shear it several times a year to keep it in compact and stop it from splitting in the middle.) The silvery foliage of the artemisia is almost white and so this is a good contrast to the purple flowers of the salvia. I have also seen red fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’ )next to Salvia leucantha and it was a nice combination covering a bank. Though not pure red this selection of fountain grass with the bronzy foliage is in the red family. (Cut back pennisetum all the way to the ground in fall with the first rain and you get a whole new plant that springs from the ground with the first rain and flowers again in summer. After cutting back feed with lawn food.) Autumn sage (Salvia greggii) is red but the blooms tend to spot the plant rather than blanket it with bloom. also it is smaller than the sage. Other ideas include several grevilleas with red blooms, but these are often short-lived. Yet another idea is Eulalia grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’) that catches the light beautifully in evening if sun shines through it then. It has silvery white to coppery plumes and I’ve seen it combined with Mexican sage and looking nice on a bank. Cut back in late fall or winter when blooms fade. I have also seen a mass of white achillea (Achillea tomentosum) next to Tagetes lemonii and Salvia leucantha and I thought it looked good, but it was the height of bloom.

Related posts:

1. Michelia Figo Tree
2. Great Garden Combinations
3. Planting for Fall and Year-Round Color in Southern California

SUCCULENTS:

General Characteristics of Dudleyas—
Approximately 40 species native to California and Mexico
Members of stonecrop family (Crassulaceae)
Can survive 20 or 50 years with little care.
Some are summer deciduous, (actually disappearing in summer) and die if watered in summer.
Others are evergreen, or will remain evergreen in foggy climate or with light occasional irrigation.
Most like to go dry in late summer.
Some species resent any summer irrigation.
Plants attract birds who collect and disperse the fine seeds.
Seeds are also spread by wind, may sprout on bare banks in the region thus helping spread these beautiful and non-weedy native plants.
When dudleyas fail in cultivation it is usually from root rot from over-watering.
All can survive without summer irrigation, though leaves may shrivel.

The following dudleyas that are available in the trade and worth trying on this green roof.

Fingertips, Ladies Fingers—(Dudleya edulis)

Attractive, low (1 foot tall and wide) evergreen plant. Native to San Diego coastal region. Grayish green foliage is edible, a source of food of Native Americans. Can take light, occasional summer irrigation. Needs some summer irrigation for survival if grown in full sun in sandy soil. I have observed it growing in pine needle debris on a north-facing, tile roof at the top of the Del Mar hill where it survived at least 45 years that I know of and stayed green year round with no summer irrigation other than drips of moisture on foggy days from overhanging foliage. Can take summer water. Its “fingers” will stay more plumped up through summer if occasionally watered very lightly overhead (like a light summer rain) or by drip. Plants are available at Las Pilatas Native Plant Nursery.

Catalina Island dudleya,—(D. virens ssp. hassei)

Evergreen plant endemic to Catalina Island, makes an excellent ground cover. Plants spread in profusely-branched mounds 6 to 8 inches high and wide. Tolerant of heavy soil.

Frank Reinelt dudleya, Anacapa dudleya (D. ‘Frank Reinelt’, D. ‘Anacapa’)

Improved selection with tight low mounds, 6 to 8 inches tall and 12 inches wide with profuse yellow flowers in spring. Silvery leaves flush rosey-purple in winter. Available from Native Sons Nursery, others.

Candleholder dudleya—(D. candelabrum)

Among many island endemic dudleyas this one from Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel islands is adapted to rocky soil. Rosettes of leaves are not finger-shaped, but measure 6 to 10 inches across. The leaves are chunky, green, flattened, and send up tight clusters of pale yellow flowers in spring, hence the name.

Britton dudleya—(D. brittonii)

Most popular of dudleyas, prized for its stunningly large (6 to 12-inch) rosette of luminous, whitish or silvery leaves. In spring sends up a tall (1 to 2 1/2 foot) flower stalk which turns red when it bears its yellow flowers. Makes a good pot plant since must have good drainage. Worth trying on the roof but may die from root rot and unlike other varieties named here, might need some brown leaves removed.

General Characteristics of Native Agaves
Most agave’s are too large for use on a roof or are native to hot interior regions and do not do well along the coast. However, the following agave is native to the coast and small enough for a roof. It can be seen growing wild in Torrey Pines Park and on coastal bluffs throughout southern California.

Shaw agave—(Agave shawii)

Bold-looking, architectural rosettes (3-foot tall and 2 feet wide) of succulent, sharply-spined, leaves are handsome year round and can be used as an effective barrier against foot traffic. Individual plants eventually create large colonies forming strong, sculptural accents. Can be used in drifts for good effect. Once an individual has matured it will send up a 7 or rarely even to 12 foot tall flower stalk with attractive rounded yellow bloom clusters that are irresistible to hummingbirds. A negative factor to this plant is that after bloom the entire rosette dies (though not the clump.) In nature the plants remain highly attractive despite the dead rosette and browning flower stalk bearing seed pods after blooms fade, but in a garden or perhaps on a roof, people may feel that the one dead rosette should be removed from the clump of new plants that by now has grown up around it. Also the flower stems may be too tall for harmonious appearance on a roof.

Shaw agave can adapt to irrigation and occasional water may improve its appearance in dry weather especially in shallow soil.

GRASSES

The main reason for any objection to grasses on this roof is the possible need for occasional mowing for safety and appearance, which might be difficult on a roof. A second reason is the problem with seedlings sprouting in the lagoon area. Nonetheless, here are two native grasses that don’t not seem to be particularly invasive and might be a good choices, providing an excellent appearance year round, and also might do well on this roof with little or no mowing:

Red Fescue—(Festuca rubra ‘Slopesaver’)

Red fescue is native to moist climates in California and is widely grown as an ornamental grass to provide an informal greensward or bank cover in sun or shade. It is available as sod or seed in as many as 40 named cultivars, the best known of which is given above. Given regular irrigation it maintains a beautiful green appearance year round. Tufted drifts 3 to 12 inches high spread by rhizomes. This grass is disease and pest free. It can be grown without mowing or can be mowed with a weed wacker if desired. Gray selections are drought-resistant. Red fescue would provide an extremely attractive sod roof and has been successfully used for this purpose.

Blue grama—(B. gracilis)

A tough, very drought-resistant, bunch grass that forms slowly spreading tufts, 4 to 16 inches tall, of wiry grass. It must have full sun and will die if over-watered. Allowing it to dry out completely between summer irrigations may be the best way to keep it happy. Best adapted to the hot, dry interior where it goes brown in winter, this grass may stay partially green in winter in this coastal zone, but it may not do as well as red fescue in a foggy coastal zone.

Related posts:

1. Native Plants Suitable For Planting Near A Coastal Lagoon
2. Native Grasses & Succulents Suitable For Planting Near A Coastal Lagoon
3. Native Plants Of Southern California’s Coastal Zones

The coastal zones of California, west of the mountains have a Mediterranean climate, which means dry summers with brilliant sunshine and blue skies, and almost all rainfall concentrated during the mild, winter and spring, averaging 10 to 40 inches per year (worldwide average for Mediterranean climates). Snowfall is rare except at high elevations.

Mediterranean climates occur on approximately 2% of the world’s total land, on the south and southwestern portions of a large land mass. There are 5 main areas: California, the Mediterranean Basin, Central Chile, Western Cape of South Africa, and Southwest and South Australia (which also faces West.)

Native plants of these regions are typically endemic to certain defined areas, because of climates within climates, caused by sun, shade, temperature, distance from coast, elevation, air currents, soil, and moisture. Not all native plants are drought resistant.

Plant adaptation, drought-evading tactics include: Summer-deciduous plants, bulbs store water in roots, annuals die after setting seeds, seeds spring up after fire, tap roots for rapid establishment combined with fine surface roots to catch moisture, plants springing from ground after fire, gray leaves resistant to sun, hairs on leaves to protect leave (hirsute), tough leathery leaves resist dehydration, thick succulent leaves and stems, protective waxy surface of leaves, mulch from fallen leaves.

Plant history of California:

• Much of California coastal region was covered with native bunchgrasses. Antelope (prong horns) abounded. The Indians burned off the thick chaparral in winter to make more spaces for grasses to grow and also to create pathways for themselves so they could get around through the thick growth. This was the California seen by Portola. In one area a botanist with his group described a valley covered with wild roses. Obviously this was a dry land, but not a desert! Native oaks also forested some portions.
• California poppy fields in Altadena were a landmark to Spanish galleons 30 miles distant, out  to sea. At first they thought it was a hillside covered with gold.
• The Mission era was marked by an influx of Spanish priests who imported food plants and used irrigation methods learned in Spain. They saved the wild landscape but brought in certain non-native plants such as California pepper, Canary Island palm, and, from Northern California, Monterey cypress.
• The Rancho era.
  - Cattle ate and destroyed our native grasses.
  - Ranchers imported European annual grasses that go brown in summer and now cover our hills

The privilege of living in San Diego, combined with the danger of fire.

• Compared to Amalfi coast where the hills burn but the houses are built of stone and all huddled together in walled, fireproof villages. We are just now beginning to learn about fire-resistant housing and gardens.
• Different types of Chaparral (Chaparral is not all alike. Each is a mix of many plants in a plant community, and these are distinguished and named for the dominant plant in each one.)
  - chamise chaparral,
  - coastal sage chaparral
  - ceonothus chaparral,
  - manzanita chapparal,
  - scrub oak chapparal,
  - others.

Similar plant communities or habitats in other Mediterranean climates around the world.

• Mantorral—Chile, or Espino (sparse savannah)
• Fynbos—South Africa (meaning “fine brush” or “fine bush”—proteas etc.) or Ericas (meaning heaths)
• Scrub Heath—Australia
• Maquis—Mediterranean (many types) and Garrigue (same thing but sparser and on poorer ground.)

Related posts:

1. Native Plants Of Southern California’s Coastal Zones
2. Planting California Native Plants
3. Native Plants Suitable For A Green Roof

Question:

Answer: I’m so glad you ordered my book. It covers all the plants we grow in handy month-by-month format but emphasizes drought-resistant gardening and plants throughout. Additionally, there are sections on native plants, the latest information on how to grow them, a new section on planting a desert garden —”Making a Garden is Like Baking a Cake”—, an updated succulent and cacti section, and a whole new section on fire-resistant gardening which especially impacts those living near wild areas. And it helps long time gardeners as well as new residents who soon find out how different gardening is here than anywhere else where they may have lived. I can’t count the times that people have told me they moved here from somewhere else, this book helped them from the get-go, and it is now their “gardening bible.”

Since you are new to gardening in Southern California, I also want to emphasize that a garden of succulents is not the only way to go. Succulents are just one large group of drought-resistant plants of many genuses that store water in their structural parts, such as leaves, branches, and trunks. Succulents can be stunning when planted in a well-designed arrangement, and yes, you could plant a whole drought-resistant garden of them as many gardeners have successfully done. However, you don’t have to carpet the ground with gravel and resort to nothing but prickly cacti or poisonous euphorbias in order to have a water-thrifty garden. You can plant a succulent garden that contains no euphorbias or cacti and still have a fascinatingly varied landscape. You could also plant a completely drought-resistant garden that does not contain a single succulent or cactus.

Take California native plants, for example, though a few of them are succulent plants most are not. During the last fifty years, while gardeners largely ignored native plants or brushed them aside as “difficult”, botanical gardens, hybridizers, and native plant enthusiasts came up with a whole raft of new, easy-to-grow selections and varieties and some of these need no summer water at all. Now that gardeners have at last become serious about saving water, they suddenly find that —Viola!—they have a whole plethora of wonderful species to plant that are much easier than those available years ago. Also, now there are several fine nurseries, such as Tree of Life Nursery near San Juan Capistrano, that specialize exclusively in native plants and are great fun to visit. (See Tree of Life website for hours and days open.)

In addition to native plants, many. but not all, grasses, palms, flowering subtropical trees, shrubs, and climbers—wisteria is a perfect example—, perennials, annuals, bulbs, shrubs, and even one rose are drought resistant. Lady Banks rose has no thorns, no diseases, and no pests and once established is highly drought-resistant. The largest rose in the world is a Lady Banks (Rosa banksiae ‘Lutea’) surviving for over a century in Tombstone Arizona without irrigation.

That said, among other books I especially recommend are Debra Baldwin’s “Designing with Succulents” and her new book “Succulent Container Gardens.” Another book that would help you is one I wrote called “The American Horticultural Society Southwest SMART GARDEN™ Regional Guide“. On pages 82 and 83 you will find a list of all the lists inside the book. Each page contains as many as 6 photographs of the plants on that particular list. Many but not all lists pertain to drought-resistant plants and they are arranged according to how you would use them. The book contains 8 pages on succulents alone: 2 pages each of succulent perennials, succulent shrubs, succulent climbers, and succulent trees. This book will teach you to recognize many of the plants that grow here but it will also help you choose good drought-resistant ones for your garden.

Every local gardener should own a copy of “Sunset Western Garden Book” and refer to the illustrated lists on drought-resistant plants in the beginning of the book. You can also identify which Sunset Climate Zone you are living in by referring to the opening pages of this book. Other wonderful books are: “California Native Plants for the Garden” by Bornstein, Fross, and O’Brien, “Native Landscaping from El Paso to L.A.” by Sally Waskowski with Andy Wasowski, and “Plants and Landscapes for Summer-Dry Climates of the San Francisco Bay Region” by the East Bay Municipal Utility District. All these books are chock full of wonderful photographs.

Related posts:

1. Drought tolerants for patio
2. Drought-resistant Lawn Substitute for People and Dogs
3. Southern California Organic Gardening, Month by Month

1. Pinus torreyana—Torrey Pine (a source of pine nuts for local native American tribes.)
2. Coreopsis maritima—Sea dahlia. (Cannot abide summer water in gardens.)
3. Encelia californica—California coastal shrub daisy (native to coastal southern California. (E. farinosa—Brittlebush, or Incienso, is a desert plant, found in interior zones.)
4. Encelia farinosa (growing in the interior near Poway.)
5. Chrysanthemum coronarium—Crown daisy, Chop-suey greens, (roadside, self-sewn, naturalized, non-native  plant often found growing on disturbed land, road edges next to chapparal but does not mix with the wild plants, nor crowds them out.)
6. Dudleya lanceolata—Lance-leaf dudleya, Live-forever . (D. brittonii has wide leaves, chalky surface, pink flowers, once widely distributed in coastal areas but cannot survive if watered in summer.)
7. Dudleya edulis—Ladies Fingers. These were a source of salad greens for Native Americans.
8. Dudley brittonii, wide leaves, chalky surface, pink flowers, once widely distributed along the coast, still exists in Rancho Santa Fe, under eucalyptus where there is no summer irrigation. This plant springs up during the fall rains and is summer deciduous.)
9. Agave americana —Barrier plant, for keeping out traffic, people, dogs, etc.. Native to Mexico, not a chaparral plant.
10. Fremontodendron ‘Pacific Sunset’—Fremontia, Flannelbush. An improved variety, or selection good for banks. No summer water, once established. Good drainage a must.
11. Ceanothus ‘Joyce Coulter’—California lilac best adapted to gardens. Excellent planted next to ‘Pacific Sunset’ Fremontodendron on steep bank.
12. Ceanothus  ‘Popcorn’ has very small leaves. (white varieties are native to coastal regions.)
13. Plants for steep hillside that gets no water once established include Atriplex canescens—Four-wing saltbush and Rhus trilobata—Squawbush
14. Cleveland sage, (Salvia clevelandii) is often grown in gardens. Best garden variety is ‘Winnifred Gilman.’ This is very aromatic in gardens and can take occasional water in summer.
15. Black sage (Salvia mellifera) is the local wild coastal sage. (Salvia clevelandii is a better one for gardens and has lavender flowers. Salvia aptinia is the white sage used to make Indian smoke sticks out of.
16. Matilija poppy (Romneya coulteri.)
17. Romneya coulteri—Matilija poppy (Native to canyons near Santa Barbara, almost extinct in the wild.)
18. Monkey flower. (Mimulus) M. aurantiacus is Sticky Monkey flower, Shrubby monkey flower or Scarlet monkey flower is Mimulus cardinalis. This one is native to damp and wet places. Mimulus aurantiacus grows wild and blooms almost year round on un-irrigated north-facing hillsides.
19. Verity Hybrid Mimulus. Newer hybrids called Verity hybrids are excellent garden plants, can survive watering.
20. Spice bush (Cneorum cneoridium dumosum)—Citrus family
21. Redberry (Rhamnus crocea) the fruit is edible. Taste ranges from bitter to cherrylike. Bitter aftertaste.
22. Malosma laurina (Rhus laurina)—Laurel sumac in Torrey Pines park. Good in gardens, common roadside plant in Del Mar. Good on banks.
    Rhus integrifolia, Lemonade Berry, makes a wonderful plant for coastal gardens, needs no water or can take water, can be pruned into interesting shapes.  Rhus ovata is similar but is the one to choose for interior gardens.
23. Chamise, Greasewood (Adenostema fasciculatum) can grow even on red rock sand stone,  showing how natives can get started in a crack in the ground, but you can’t expect that behavior in gardens. (Highly flammable but adapts to gardens)
24. Warty-stem Ceonothus (Ceonothus verrucosus). Wild type with small white flowers in spring, not widely grown in gardens.
25. California Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum)
26. Eriogonum arborescens ‘Santa Cruz’—Santa Cruz buckwheat is a fine garden variety. Deadhead after bloom. (Another wonderful and taller, dramatic buckwheat is E. giganteum—St. Catherine’s lace.
27. Coastal Sage Brush. (Artemisia californica) ‘Canyon Gray’ and ‘Montara’ are superior selections.
28. Deer weed, (Lotus scoparius)—perennial, covers hillsides after fire, native to coastal sage scrub and chapparal. (Said to be eaten by deer. Has pea-shaped blooms.
29. Cneoridium dumosum—Spicebush, (Citrus family.) Some people are allergic, break out in warts. (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi—Kinnikinnik, Bear berry—Good drought-resistant ground cover, prostrate grower,  native to northern CA coast.
30. Mission manzanita (Xylococcus bicolor)—Member of the heath family.
31. Heteromeles arbutifolia—Toyon, California holly growing in Torrey pines park. Brings birds, excellent roadside, no water needed but can take garden water, member of the rose, subject to fireblight. Many growing wild in Del Mar.
32. Dendromecon rigida—Bush poppy (Dendromecon harfordii—Island bush poppy—good garden plant for full sun.)
33. Purple nightshade (Solanum xantii) Poisonous, long blooming, Local member of the nightshade family (Solanum rantonnetii is a non-native  evergreen shrub for gardens from Paraguay and Argentina ‘Royal Robe’ is a good selection.)
34. Goldfields (Lasthenia californica) Member of the sunflower family.
35. Wishbone bush (Mirabilis californica)
36. Eriodictylon crassifolium—Yerba Santa (Named by the Spanish mission padres for its healing qualities. Cures respiratory infections and fevers. Bound the fresh leaves onto sores and smoked and chewed the dried leaves. Chew leaf: bitter taste changes to sweet cool taste.
37. Cucurbita foetidissima (Cucurbitacea family)—Stinking gourd. Foliage has fowl  odor. Early Spanish settlers and Indians used the large root as a purgative or pounded it into a soap said to clean like nothing else but said to need careful rinsing since particles left in garments would irritate skin. Indians ate the seeds, Spanish ladies used the gourds as darning balls. Children played with them. Grows on banks in some coastal towns. A rough perennial vine with large, carrot-shaped root. Dies to the ground in winter.
38. Marah macrocarpus—Wild cucumber, Old man of the earth. Trailing perennial vine from huge fleshy root, dies to the ground in winter, can live for hundreds of years, one of the first plants to reappear after fire because of its large root. Also known as man root, since large enough to seem like a human corpse. Indians used the seeds for necklaces; children used them as marbles. Male flowers appear on special stems in groups of five to 20 with the stamens exposed and noticeable, at the base of this special stem may be one female flower with a fat little ovary, which turns  into a large, egg-shaped bright green fruit, about 4 inches long, covered with big soft green prickles that turn hard and spiney as fruit dries. Inside are several handsome black seeds. (Marah refers to bitter waters in bible. Fruit is bitter.)
39. Vitis californica—California wild grape. A large vine, no fruit, provides delightful shade. Deciduous. Rogers Red holds gray-green leaf color all summer, turns red in fall. Vitis girdiana is nearly identical, native to Southern California.
40. Malocothamnus fasciculatus—Bush mallow. Grows on disturbed land, coastal sage, roadside, long-blooming, garden varieties may be available.
41. Suncups (Camissonia cheiranthifolia ssp. suffruticosa) Pretty flower of coastal dunes and cliffs.
42. Sisyrinchium bellum—Blue-eyed grass. Blooms magnificently after fire. Perennial.  (S. bermudiae, is a native to Bermuda, self-sows in gardens, blooms year round. member of the iris family.
43. Ground pink (Lynanthus dianthiflora) Phlox family. This plant and flowers named below mix together and carpet undisturbed cliffs after rain.
44. Vining milkweed. (Sarcostemma cynanchoides) Milkweed family.
45. Morning Glory (Calystegia macrostegia)
46. Golden Yarrow (Eriophyllum confertiflorum)
47. Phacelia cicutaria—Woolly phacelia.  Spring-blooming, high desert annual found in many wild flower mixes, adaptable to wildflower garden displays..
48. Woolley Indian Paint Brush (Castelleja foliosa) Figwort family
49. Woolley Indian Paint Brush (Castelleja foliosa) There is another species of Indian Paint Brush also growing in Torrey Pines Park. (C. affinis.) which has green floliage and reddish stems.
50. Sand verbena (Abronia umbellata)
51. Bladder Pod (Isomeris aborea) Very fragrant though some don’t like this fragrance.
52. Lavatera assurgentiflora—Island tree mallow (Nativc to Channel islands, naturalized on coastal mainland, grows in many local gardens.)
53. Mexican marigold— (Tagetes lemmonii). Lovely growing next to S. leucantha, roadside or in gardens. A shrub. Cut back hard after bloom.
54. Mexican sage (Salvia leucantha)-colorful planted with Mexican marigold.
55. Hummingbird flower, California fuchsia (Zauschneria californica, syn: Epilobium canum canum .)
56. Mexican tulip poppy (Hunnemannia fumariifolia )— Plants look unapreposessing in the cans. But in the ground Hunnemannia fumariifolia —Mexican tulip poppy is a colorful perennial in a garden. (Similar to California poppy. Perennial, often treated as annual.)
57. Eschscholzia californica—California poppy
58. Appropriate garden settings for these plants include:
    Drought resistant gardens with dry stream bed and mix of native and exotic plants
    Fire-resistant chaparral gardens, Zones 3 or 4  surviving with no irrigation,  but with more water-adapted varieties subsisting on runoff fromhigher ground.
    Coastal chaparral restoration and re-forestation projects.

Related posts:

1. Native Plants of the Southern California Coast
2. Native Plants Suitable For Planting Near A Coastal Lagoon
3. Native Plants for Erosion Control on Steep Banks

Question from Linda:

Answer from Pat:
I am one of those people who happen to love the California pepper tree (Schinus molle), which is actually native to Peru and not to California. The other pepper tree is the Brazilian pepper tree (Schinus terebinthefolius.) People have love/hate relationships with both of these trees. I belong to the love group for California pepper trees but not for Brazilian peppers, though I have seen some old specimens that had been well pruned for many years and they were and are almost breathtakingly beautiful. (There are several of these stunning ancient specimens on the West side of Balboa Park in San Diego.)

But here we are discussing the California pepper tree. It is just about impossible to grow anything under a California pepper tree except in pots and containers so why try? This is not to say that one cannot use these trees in a delightful way in the landscape. There is a painting belonging to the Irvine Museum, a museum I try to visit at least once during each exhibition of their early California plein air and Impressionist paintings. The painting to which I refer is very impressionistic and is I believe on display now into June 11, 2011. If not, you can see it in some of the books that the museum sells in their gift shop. This painting shows some ladies sitting on a wicker couch and chairs at a green tea table with a white tablecloth on it under the shade of a California pepper tree and this is the way I think they should be used. All the lovely pepper trees I have known in gardens have been used as places to sit and relax in the shade or, in one case i recall, as a tree house for children. Children love playing under these trees which can arch their foliage down all around leaving a space like a house inside.

One particularly memorable specimen was fifty or more years old when I knew it. It grew in the garden of friends of mine who lived in one of the older parts of La Jolla twenty or thirty years ago. The land sloped down behind the two-story Spanish house and was covered with lawn. Today it would be probably planted with succulents or with a mixed flowering shrubbery and have some raised beds for vegetables in full sun and a level patio closer to the house. But we are talking here about the era before lawns came under attack and all this garden consisted of was simply a lawn with thick hedges on each side and the great California pepper filling the space at the bottom of the lawn. Can you imagine this was nonetheless the most charming and natural-seeming of gardens?

This California pepper tree had been pruned and cleaned out inside so that it arched up and the branches came down on the sides in a leafy fringe creating an open space beneath it like a special house. Around the outside the foliage was clipped off at a predetermined height about 3 feet above ground, but in the center, in front was a higher place so one could walk into what resembled a doorway and you didn’t need to duck your head. The upper branches were filled with singing birds. So the place had its own built-in music system.

Under the shade of the pepper tree several pieces of artistically chosen wooden and wicker chairs were carefully placed with comfortable blue and print pillows on them, and there was a table too. These items of furniture were placed in such a way that they did not destroy the magical ambiance of the place, and nor did they fight with the large and twisted tree trunk which seemed like part of the entertainment. The woman owner of the garden was a member of the Fern Society. Next to her family, ferns were her big interest in life and this is where she kept her collection. With the artistry that some people have in as natural a way as breathing she had decorated the space under the pepper tree with ferns in pots and containers. All were placed on stepping stones so roots could not invade. Some were swung from hanging baskets at various levels inside the tree. Some epiphytic plants also had been established on the tree trunk and had found homes on the huge old branches. A whole collection of interesting things like epiphyllums, donkey tails and various succulents tumbled here and there from the ancient branches and from the tree’s trunk in just the right places. I used to see gardens in Hollywood and Laguna Beach back in the forties that had collections like this in the trees. It is all part of the old California atmosphere that it is fun to create in gardens, though I grant you it does take talent. Photos in books, however, can give much inspiration and help in developing the right touch.

To say that this place was magical is to put it mildly. It embraced me in a special atmosphere that stays with me to this day when I remember it. One could have hooked up a drip system, hiding the tubes with great care so they did not destroy the charm. However, I imagine my friend dragged over the hose once or twice a week to water her plant collection and she doubtless plucked out the debris that fell into the pots, but that was her joy. Obviously one had to shake off or brush off the pillows since pepper trees are constantly drippy. The ground was simply mulch and covered with small brown leaves that sifted from above. The owner/gardener raked it up so it looked clean and was soft under foot. I don’t know if she added mulch but a California pepper makes its own mulch. After knowing a tree like this one how can one ever fail to love such a tree? And so ever afterwards I have thought this is how I think they should be used. One could make a patio there of stepping stones but it’s not necessary. The main thing is ornamenting the space in an artistic way and using it for seating and growing any plants in containers, always placing them on stepping stones so no roots invade.

Related posts:

1. California Pepper Tree or Mexican Pepper tree
2. California Pepper Tree (Schinus molle)
3. Tree for in front of our house

• Swan Hill Fruitless Olives anchoring the house on both sides and middle in the front. (full sun with sea breeze)
• Acacia baileyana near street on both sides of driveway. (full sun with sea breeze)
• Mild slopes in front and side of the house (full sun), away from Olives will be native shrubs. Del Mar Manzanita and Heart’s Desire Ceonutha for low shrubs, Dara’s Choice Salvia, Catalina Island Fuschia and Santa Cruz Island Buckwheat for medium heights against the white stucco fence.
• I will use Toyon for a larger shrub/tree in one area with the same low lying natives I’m using on the slopes.
• A Jordan Macadamia in a wind protected area on the East side of the house. (full sun)
• A Swan Hill Olive in my main interior courtyard.
• I have a slope with a stairway in the back with boulders where I’m thinking of Pinus Contorta Contorta instead of the Japenese black pine because they don’t grow as big.

I’m using the planting/maintenance instructions from your site and the Las Palitas website for the natives. Please let me know if there is anything here that you might be concerned about.

Response from Pat:
Your choice of plants sounds excellent. What I especially like is the way you’re sticking with a Mediterranean and native scheme and things that can stand up to wind. The colors sound good too. It’s a nice sophisticated choice of plants for a coastal Mediterranean climate.

A couple of ideas: When choosing natives, pay attention to some of the better and improved selections. Many of these are available at Tree of Life Nursery, 33201 Ortega Highway, San Juan Capistrano. Phone 949728-0685 to be sure of hours and days open. November is a good time to plant natives. The toyon I like best is the one from Catalina island with bigger bunches of berries (Heteromeles arbutifolia macrocarpa.) I am not familiar with Ceanothus gloriosus ‘Hearts Desire’ but I know it’s from Point Reyes and thus good along the coast but not good inland. It’s one of the flatter ones but may let in weeds. (Not that you shouldn’t choose it.) You plants sound great.

Related posts:

1. Trees for New Home
2. Container Grown Trees
3. Choosing Citrus Trees for home garden

Question from Howard:

Answer from Pat:
Before I can answer your question, I need to know where you live. Plants are adapted to certain regions and not to others. I cannot give you any suggestions for what to plant without knowing where you live. For example, what if you live in the Middle West, or Arizona, or New England? Your question gives me no clue. My recommendations for planting a bank in each of these regions would be totally different. Also, if you live in Southern California, or anywhere in the west, please tell me what Sunset Climate Zone you live in. (Please do not give me the USDA Climate Zone since they are not specific enough.) If you give me your Sunset Climate Zone, I will know what plants to recommend. Also, please refer to my suggestions to other readers who have written with questions about planting a bank. Perhaps I have already described a bank planting that will perfectly fill your needs. You will find many suggestions included in the answers given on the following link: Plant to Prevent Erosion on a Steep Hillside.

Related posts:

1. Planting a Bank
2. Planting & Growing Zone
3. How to Space Plants when Planting a Bank

Question from Candace and Cyrus:

Answer from Pat:
One of the most pressing current needs of gardeners is a drought- and-wear-resistant ground cover to take the place of a lawn, especially for people who have dogs or children who love to run and play and can wear out many kinds of ground covers. My suggestions are these: First a bermudagrass lawn such as ‘Santa Ana’ or ‘Tifgreen’ is grass but it is very drought-resistant and will stay green along the coast even in winter and will take no more water than gazanias. In a drought it will pull in its horns and go brown but it will not die. It is far better to water it longer once a week than more shallowly and for less long three times a week as some cities now mistakenly legislate.

Secondly I suggest planting creeping white yarrow or woolly yarrow (Achillea tomentosa) as a lawn. Plant seeds in fall and keep the ground damp until they are germinated. It will take a little time to become established but it will eventually make a ferny green mat that is very pleasant to walk on and very durable. The flowers are a bonus and can be taken off after blooms fade with a weed-wacker.

Thirdly I suggest Lippia (Phyla nodiflora). It is a drought-resistant, low groundcover that takes foot traffic, but it does bear pink flowers in June that bring bees. You can mow them off in June with a lawn mower in order that your dog’s paws won’t get bitten. (Bees in the garden don’t bite except when you accidentally step on one or grasp one by mistake. Bees do protect and guard their hives, however, but having a lawn that attracts bees won’t cause bees to make a hive in your garden.)

Related posts:

1. Creeping Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) for Lawn
2. Drought-Resistant Gardening
3. Variegated Carmel creeper (Ceanothus griseus horizontalis ‘Diamond Heights’ as lawn substitute