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Yellow Leaves Falling off Honeysuckle, Citrus, and Other Plants

Question from Joan:

Every year my honeysuckle grows full with lots of blooms but after that most of the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Why

Answer from Pat:

Let’s begin with a blanket answer: The first thing that comes to mind with any plant, not just honeysuckle, having yellow leaves that drop off and fall to the ground is lack of nitrogen. The cure is to feed it. Seasonal leaf drop is another thing. Leaves do drop, after all, even from evergreen plants. So that too might be the problem. You might even be growing a honeysuckle that is not well adapted to your climate. In that case, weather extremes can cause leaves to go yellow and drop off. Also, make sure the plant is getting adequate moisture and not too much and adequate nutrition (Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace minerals.) A product called John and Bob’s Soil Optimizer can provide trace minerals and often gives sick plants a shot in the arm if the problems derive from insufficiency in plant minerals or bio-organisms. Additionally, if the ground is too wet or too dry, either of these things can lead to yellow leaves that drop off. (I will discuss this in more detail below.

Now to your specific question regarding honeysuckle: there are at least 200 honeysuckle species and even more if you count all the named varieties. About 20 species and varieties are commonly grown in the Western states of the United States of America. All are members of the Lonicera (honeysuckle) genus. Some are shrubs, some are climbers, and some come close to being trees. They are adapted to a wide variety of climates, ranging from those that are adapted to living in Siberia to those that would be happiest in a steamy tropical jungle. At least one type bears edible berries. Additionally, people often write to me with questions about Cape honeysuckle (Tecoma capensis) that is not a honeysuckle at all. (If this is what you are growing, please see the other sections in this blog on that subject.) Thus, you can see that without telling me where you live or which honeysuckle species you are growing or whether it’s in a container or the ground, it’s virtually impossible for me to give you a specific answer. That said, I will hazard a guess or several guesses on what might be the problem and you will have to figure it out and take your pick.

S now let’s discuss some possibilities. First, I should tell you that honeysuckles are usually easy to grow and have few problems. In Southern California where I live, common or Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) is an invasive ground cover plant whose seeds are spread by birds. Seldom is there a problem with leaves falling off. Almost nothing ever goes wrong with it and that combined with its vigor and invasiveness makes it a terrible pest. Fertilizing it is a bad idea since it will become even more bad mannered than it already is. (I hasten to say this since I am going to mention fertilizer below, but I would not normally recommend you use it if you are dealing with a bank covered with honeysuckle in Southern California.)

There is another honeysuckle, however, that is a tropical type, the giant Burmese honeysuckle (Lonicera hildebrandiana). This is a vigorous, fast- growing vine that in time can grow a thick woody trunk and cover a very large structure. (Perhaps this is what you have?) The leaves of this plant are evergreen and quite large and so are the flowers. The leaves often go bright yellow and fall off year round. If giant Burmese honeysuckle is flowering and then goes dry, the leaves are likely to turn bright yellow and fall off. If stressed by heavy bloom, it may drop all its leaves after bloom and then grow new ones. If it doesn’t have enough nitrogen the new leaves will be too small. The solution is to fertilize with ample balance fertilizer and keep the plant well watered so that it can quickly grow leaves to replace those that naturally fall. (You cannot stop them from falling; it’s the nature of the plant, but good cultural practices will stop them from falling off all at once.) In short, Burmese honeysuckle is not a drought-resistant plant. It needs lots of water. Keep it well-fed, well-watered, and well-mulched. Train it on a trellis or arbor, and prune it to encourage branching and to keep it in bounds. It is not an appropriate plant for pot culture.

With any plant, including honeysuckle, leaf drop after massive bloom might occur it it’s growing in soil with ample quantities of phosphorus and potassium and insufficient nitrogen. Also, if a plant is doing well in winter at lower temperatures, then the weather warms up and the soil is too wet, root rot can set in. This can cause yellow leaves that drop off. (Usually, however, this is fatal and you tell me this happens every year. Thus I don’t think root rot is your problem.) It is true that wet soils combined with lack of nitrogen can cause leaves to go yellow and fall off which can be a sign of root rot and wet soils, but leaf drop can also occur from transplant shock or even from soil suddenly going too dry. For example, a frequent garden scenario, in Mediterranean climates is that plants do fine in the rains of winter, then dry weather hits, and the plant has insufficient nitrogen to keep growing so the leaves go yellow from lack of nitrogen and fall off from drought. Sometimes plants flower massively and put on a lot of fruit when they think they are going to die. They want to make sure they at least leave a few babies behind to take their place after their own tragic demise.

Here’s an example: I once was called in by an elderly neighbor to look at her Meyer lemon that had been growing fine for several years in a half-barrel. Then suddenly without warning all the leaves fell off but the tree still had loads of flowers and even many little fruits—more than usual my neighbor said. She was afraid the tree had died and was convinced a disease or pest had done it in. Her gardener wanted to spray it with Malathion. I said, “Whatever you do, don’t let him do that! I’ll come right over!” Knowing him well, a dashed over there right away and my neighbor showed the tree to me. It was alive, that was obvious. Its twigs and tip wood were still bright green and when I pushed my thumb nail in them sap came out, and there was not a pest in sight. Any pests, if there were any, had dropped off with the leaves. My neighbor said her gardener was watering the tree twice or three times a week. (He was standing right there sprayer in hand, staring at the tree and at me.) I took one look and saw the whole container was chock full of roots—no soil at all—, and there was a space about half an inch wide all around the inside edge of the half-barrel where the water flowed right away with none of it ever reaching the plant.

I told the gardener to bring the hose and pour water onto the roots. Both my neighbor and her gardener could see when he did that the water flowed right off the roots and out the bottom of the tub and not one drop was penetrating the roots. I shoved a trowel into the root ball to show them the roots were dry as a bone. The tree had dropped its leaves to try to save its own life. In more scientific terms, it wanted to prevent loss through transpiration of the last little bit of moisture it still contained. You might have a situation like this with your honey suckle if it’s growing on a bank so all the irrigation water is running away instead of getting to the roots. Or the same thing might be happening in a pot, if that’s how you’re growing it. In the case of the Meyer lemon tree, I told the lady to have her gardener dig a hole in the ground and take the tree out of the tub, loosen up its roots, and plant it in the ground, then build a watering basin around it and keep it watered. He put the sprayer away and began digging a hole. After it was planted in the ground and had leafed out I told her to feed it. Her gardener did all this. The little tree breathed a sigh of relief, drank in the water, and almost immediately sprouted new leaves.

After reading all these possibilities I suggest you first read up on honeysuckles to find out which one you have, then dig into the soil where it grows and find out if the soil is too wet or too dry. If too dry, fertilize, water, and mulch the ground to encourage growth. If too wet, reduce irrigation. If your plant is in clay soil that is compacted due to alkalinity, spread gypsum to increase drainage. Add mulch to improve the soil. If you have never fertilized, begin fertilizing and from now on prune after bloom to encourage re-growth. Also from now on (except in the case mentioned in paragraph one above) fertilize at regular intervals at least once a year early in the growing season with an all-purpose organic fertilizer to provide adequate nitrogen for growth. Chicken manure should work well. Apply to the ground, cover with mulch, and water it in.

Comments

  1. I recently planted a Japenese honeysuckle to grow up one of the posts of the carport. I’m devastated to read that it is invasive. I chose it because it was drought tolerant and loved by hummingbirds. I certainly don’t want it to end up invading open spaces where natives grow. Should I remove it? If so, what should I replace it with? It seemed that so many of the vine choices all wanted regular water. I like yellow and purple for bloom colors.

    • This question is a wonderful example of how people get into trouble by buying a plant first and learning about its characteristics second. I would never plant Japanese honeysuckle because birds carry the seeds and it comes up all over the place and is ever so difficult to eradicate since it mixes in with other plants.

      I have been trying to get rid of it for years. However, Japanese honeysuckle doesn’t invade wild spaces unless there is a stream or water course such as a gully nearby. But if you water anything in your garden within one or two hundred feet of the plant then, yes, it is likely to spring up there and will take over. So if this is true and you do water elsewhere in the garden, then indeed I would take it out.

      Now what drought-tolerant climber should you plant to bring hummingbirds?

      I suggest flame vine (Pyrostegia venusta). It takes moderate water and would grow up one post of your carport and cover the roof with a sheet of green leaves which would bloom in winter (bright golden orange) and hang down the sides in a sheet. Divine! I love it. Plant in full sun; it likes a hot spot. Water it deeply to get it going. Once its established water deeply but infrequently. This gets few if any pests or diseases, is spectacular and drought-resistant once established. You will have a show-stopper. BUT please water and feed enough at first to get it going. Once it is big it can survive with infrequent water. I hope you will love it as much as I do.

  2. my small delicate yellow honesuckle has grown up the fence and at the top has the flowers fine you would think but the rest of it looks dead the green leaves turn brown and drop off consequently all I have is bare up to the flowers can you help…………….I live in north Yorkshire in a suburbian area in reasonably sheltered garden.

  3. I live in the UK, so things might be different. But I have a well established and bushy honeysuckle. Its leaves grow well throughout the spring, but in summer as it begins to flower it sheds all its leaves. It is flowering now on bare woody stalks. it looks horrid. do you know what the problem might be? We have had plenty of sunshine and rain this month.
    Thanks for any suggestions.

    • Thank you for asking me such an interesting question, which gives me much to think about. Here in California, due to a varied topography of valleys, hills, mountains and mesas and our proximity to the ocean, most gardeners are aware of climate zones or “plant climates”. Climate zones are geographic locations where due to factors involving elevation, latitude, and distance from the coast a certain plant or plants will grow and others won’t. Climate zones were first discovered in the 1920’s by a young agricultural scientist who was hiking on a mountainside in Southern California and noticed an undulating line below which the invasive weed bermudagrass flourished and above which not a single blade of this plant was growing. This discovery resulted in the delineation of geographical zones where due to the year-round day and night temperatures, citrus trees would flourish and bear fruit. Prior to this discovery entire crops worth millions of dollars were destroyed by extremes of temperature and occasionally the trees themselves even were killed. The next plant of economic value to be studied was the avocado resulting in “the avocado belt” where avocados flourish and bear good crops on the sides of air-drained hills. Subsequently virtually all other economic plants for agricultural and horticultural use were studied, categorized and listed in the Sunset Western Garden Book, an encyclopedia of plants published by Lane Publishing. The US Department of Agriculture also has a system of climate zones but these are far larger and less precise than our Sunset Zones here in the west. Eventually agricultural scientists developed many new varieties of plants that are well adapted to growing in specific climate zones.

      I grew up in England on a large estate in Yorkshire called “Hoyle Court” which was owned by my maternal grandparents who were mill-owners. I was very aware that all our tomatoes were grown in greenhouses and that we grew peas outdoors in summer. Yet after immigrating to America we grew our tomatoes outdoors and after coming to California I learned from our next door neighbor in Hollywood that we could plant peas in autumn and grow them in winter. Fave beans also grew here in winter and even some flowers, such as stock. I found this very exciting. I remember when I was 15 years old saying to my stepfather, “Everything is different here. Someone should write a book about it.” I did not know that eventually I would be the one to write that book. But back in the 1940’s, no one told me about plant climates or that tomato flowers fall off when nighttime temperatures drop below 55F. or above 75F..

      And now to bring this discussion back to your honeysuckle—there are about 180 species of honeysuckles worldwide plus many named varieties which are adapted to various climate zones. One possible reason that your honeysuckle is dropping leaves in summer might be that it is not adapted to the climate where you live. Many tropical plants, for example, bloom on bare wood. Could it be that some of this heritage remains in the past genetics of your vine?

      Now to complicate matters, along comes global warming which in turn causes climate change. Here in California we now have sudden swings in temperature which we never used to have, such as a sudden hot spell or cold night that might make all the flowers fall off a fruit tree thus ruining the crop that year. Or an ornamental plant suddenly drops all its leaves. Could it be that the reason your honeysuckle is losing its leaves in summer but continuing to flower is that such swings of temperature occurred last spring and are making the plant lose its leaves in summer? This is one possibility. But how can we understand that it continues to flower? Perhaps the particular species of Lonicera (honeysuckle) you are growing thinks it’s going to die. Of course plants don’t think, but there is nonetheless an intelligence within them, a strong force inside nature and inside all living things to stay alive. Thus plants that are stressed are programmed by nature to make seeds. For example, if a pine tree is drought stricken, it “fears” it’s going to die and it will put all its energy into making pine cones so that it will be sure to leave plenty of progeny to carry on after its demise.

      Another factor that might cause leaves to yellow and fall off is that you have had so much rain. If you have heavy clay soil or layer of soil beneath the surface of the ground that does not drain well, it could be that this lack of drainage is making the soil too soggy for your plant. Most honeysuckle varieties prefer well-drained soil. Waterlogged soil can lead to yellowing of leaves and leaf drop.

      Vita Sackville-West wrote that if a plant is a failure for whatever reason, we should always “Yank it out!” and replace with something better. That’s what I do. I try to grow all the best, most spectacular and easiest plants that are best adapted to the climate zone in which I live and I yank out all others. I simply don’t want any trouble-makers.

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